Happiness is to be found when in pursuit of it, in the soothed expectation, on the way, not only upon the arrival. Accepting detours, just going the way, which is anyhow not this obvious to anyone.
Thomas Bettinelli

Happiness is just a hairflip away.
Chris Crocker


"The way the system works now, you see the clothes, within an hour or so they're online, the world sees them. They don't get to a store for six months. The next week, young celebrity girls are wearing them on red carpets. They're in every magazine. The customer is bored with those clothes by the time they get to the store. They're overexposed, you're tired of them, they've lost their freshness".
Tom Ford


Phoebe English

First things first : young people in Britain woke up a year ago to the certain knowledge that their collective action in voting had changed the political landscape. Over one million 18 to 24 year olds registered to vote since Prime Minister Theresa May called a snap election, a decision arrogantly based on the assumption that she'd sweep back with a landslide endorsement of her hard Brexit stance against Europe. Well, the kids were having none of it, and nor was Phoebe English. The first designer to show at London men's Fashion Week was jumping up and down, hugging and kissing friends at a result that has helped knock the existing Conservative majority off course. "Ooh, it's so wonderful to feel hope", she said, "this isn't a political presentation at all, but..." Yet there she was, channelling all her tender lived experience in a subtle way that cut through. Who will witness the differences in the way heterosexual young women and men relate today ? Her presentation took the form of a pottery class, with boys making coiled shapes with their hands out of wet clay. "My boyfriend, Sam, is a potter", she said. "He has blue eyes, and that's how he dresses, in those ticking striped tops and shorts. A lot of men I know do pottery, in a way which isn't professional, but to relax and feel better. So I wanted to do something that was sort of healing and optimistic, and felt safe". It's no surprise that creative people in London fashion are sensitized to the recent attacks, which have particularly targeted young people. Phoebe English's mode of thinking about resisting the external stress is more on the quiet, domestic front. On one level, she says her menswear is "based on utilitarian, functional clothes". It's simple, boy-man stuff. When she talks about the need to feel safe and calm, all of us who live in big cities relate to what has been robbed from us. Yet underlying this present horror lie deeper generational mind shifts. "All the men I know do their girlfriend's washing, do the cleaning, it's normal", she said. "But I've looked on the Internet, and there's no imagery of that kind of masculinity. It's not reflected. I don't even think women much ask men, 'how are you feeling ?' So, in doing men's clothes, I'm like an eye in the sky, starting from nowhere". What the designer does is very much on the minor creative outskirts of the mainstream of fashion, yet what she says, so sensitively, is nevertheless part of the general outrage felt by British youth which caused what may well be a history-making swing towards the Labour party's Jeremy Corbyn.

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