Happiness is to be found when in pursuit of it, in the soothed expectation, on the way, not only upon the arrival. Accepting detours, just going the way, which is anyhow not this obvious to anyone.
Thomas Bettinelli

Happiness is just a hairflip away.
Chris Crocker


"The way the system works now, you see the clothes, within an hour or so they're online, the world sees them. They don't get to a store for six months. The next week, young celebrity girls are wearing them on red carpets. They're in every magazine. The customer is bored with those clothes by the time they get to the store. They're overexposed, you're tired of them, they've lost their freshness".
Tom Ford


Christopher Ræburn

Just like its inspiration (Sławomir Rawicz's "The long walk", a disputed account of his 1941 escape from a Siberian gulag and subsequent 6,500km/ 4,000mi traverse to British-held India) a lot happened in this Christopher Ræburn collection. The opening section featured capes, sweats, jackets, totes, macs, parkas and shorts made of spliced angular sections of mesh, jersey, and what looked like some kind of violently off-red orange synthetic. This was taken from "pre-flown" kites and was just one of this collection's portfolio of Ræburn-signature reconstructions. Others included desert camo pieces reworked into pimped-up shorts, bombers and shirts, and 1940s vintage army surplus transformed into 21st-century standard anorak and mac. There was also a tote with a back pocket that looked to have been made from the same heavy fabric. Most of these pieces featured black webbing trims on which Mr Ræburn's laudably ethical three Rs (remade, reduced, recycled) were etched. Within this section of nicely sliced and diced technical-meets-streetwear were shift dresses for women and an orange-branded gray jersey jacket with lapels and everything for men : signals that the designer was testing the boundaries of his utility-formed practice. Then he gave it a proper shove with a long section of tulle made technical. This techni-tulle, either in black or that distress signal orange/red, was used at first as shells around shorts and sweats featuring his animal of the season, a desert rodent called a jerboa, and then in total looks for both men and women, still framed by that webbing. As with Sławomir Rawicz's epic saga, not everything on this journey was totally believable, especially that closing section, but it was still a trip worth taking.

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