Happiness is to be found when in pursuit of it, in the soothed expectation, on the way, not only upon the arrival. Accepting detours, just going the way, which is anyhow not this obvious to anyone.
Thomas Bettinelli

Happiness is just a hairflip away.
Chris Crocker


"The way the system works now, you see the clothes, within an hour or so they're online, the world sees them. They don't get to a store for six months. The next week, young celebrity girls are wearing them on red carpets. They're in every magazine. The customer is bored with those clothes by the time they get to the store. They're overexposed, you're tired of them, they've lost their freshness".
Tom Ford


Wales Bonner

Grace Wales Bonner is so known for her serious, intellectual approach to exploring black male identity that her audience arrives on guard to try to catch every nuance of her meaning. That was just as true here, but this time she had stripped away clues in terms of a set or historically referenced ceremony, or even the decoration which has become one of the identifiers of her clothes. "I was thinking more in terms of minimalism this time", she said. "I wanted to concentrate on perfecting the cut and the fit, to show it's a luxury product". That was far from all that was going on, of course. There was the program Wales Bonner had handed out, for a start : it contained a printout of a Hilton Als essay about James Baldwin, from a 2016 exhibition catalog at the Artist’s Institute in New York, pictures from The Homoerotic Photography of Carl Van Vechten, and other research notes. "What I was feeling came much more from literature this season, and these shows I had seen in New York", said the designer. "So I was thinking about James Baldwin, and the ones who came after who his work enabled; the sons of James Baldwin". Intellectual exploration, learning, time spent turning over how to represent her responses to male sexuality is, she smiled, "my relaxation". Be that as it may, what was more than apparent in her results is how much concentration Wales Bonner is putting into refining and mastering the nonintellectual skills demanded by men's tailoring. Many's the young designer (and the old, come to that) who can distract attention from the content of a collection by talking up backstories. There was no distraction here from seeing how excellently fitted the slim cargo pants and military trousers were, or how perfectly proportioned the black calf leather suit. Proof that Grace Wales Bonner is just as serious about being a designer as she is a thinker.

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