Happiness is to be found when in pursuit of it, in the soothed expectation, on the way, not only upon the arrival. Accepting detours, just going the way, which is anyhow not this obvious to anyone.
Thomas Bettinelli

Happiness is just a hairflip away.
Chris Crocker


"The way the system works now, you see the clothes, within an hour or so they're online, the world sees them. They don't get to a store for six months. The next week, young celebrity girls are wearing them on red carpets. They're in every magazine. The customer is bored with those clothes by the time they get to the store. They're overexposed, you're tired of them, they've lost their freshness".
Tom Ford


Moncler Gamme Bleu

While this Moncler Gamme Bleu outing was not the first to feature fake snow blanketing the show space, the collection will likely be remembered as the one in which models had no choice but to shuffle along as though hiking through a true winter scene. Taking the mountain-climbing theme to elevated extreme, Thom Browne reduced this troop's range of motion by binding and lacing their legs at various points (ankle, calf, thigh) and with varying degrees of resistance. Some swished, others waddled; inner thighs and glutes were no doubt engaged. But the mountaineering simulation wasn't just for kicks; it served as a recurring aesthetic device that projected embellishment originality and punchy graphic appeal. "It directed the design", Mr Browne noted, post-show. "I wanted to take that detail and do it in non-expected ways". To that effect, an initial squad of models not featured in these photos surveyed the terrain in gray suits festooned in a lattice of carabiners (99 on the jacket, 105 on the pants) connected by tonal rope to create a giant netted overlay. See Look 12 to get the gist, and note the prevalent placement of the clips and advanced-level knots everywhere else, henceforth relegating studs and grommets to child's play. Despite all the constrictive binding -which, in a different context, might be suggestive of Japanese kinbaku or shibari- climbing doesn't come with a default uniform or style of dress similar to other sport references, so Thom Browne had wide creative license when it came to the outfits. Naturally, the outdoor performance pieces were realized according to his tailoring rigor, so that the Chesterfields, pea coats, and blazers will be adaptable to pretty much any situation. Equally impressive : how Donegal and Harris tweeds, herringbone, and intarsias were incorporated into this activewear lineup without discord. Most of these technically enhanced traditional fabrics appeared as a crisp interlude of blue, gray and yellow between the classic Moncler tricolor and Mr Browne's elegant evening black. Presumably, the palette was extracted straight from the mountaintops. The American designer confirmed that several looks -hopefully the quilted suits in flocked stripe and the final evening coat among the mix- would hit stores as shown on the runway since, ultimately, the details are usable. Executed with just enough high-brow finesse to steer clear of kitsch, the concept was also pure Thom Browne to the extent that it left many thoughts percolating. Models who appeared strung together, for instance, conveyed the spirit of the sport even though they seemed collectively uncomfortable doing so. Climbers, unlatch : you have nothing to lose but your carabiners !

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