Happiness is to be found when in pursuit of it, in the soothed expectation, on the way, not only upon the arrival. Accepting detours, just going the way, which is anyhow not this obvious to anyone.
Thomas Bettinelli

Happiness is just a hairflip away.
Chris Crocker


"The way the system works now, you see the clothes, within an hour or so they're online, the world sees them. They don't get to a store for six months. The next week, young celebrity girls are wearing them on red carpets. They're in every magazine. The customer is bored with those clothes by the time they get to the store. They're overexposed, you're tired of them, they've lost their freshness".
Tom Ford


John Varvatos

Like everyone else right now, John Varvatos is seeking meaning. As he articulated backstage before this show, held in the Weimar-like Diamond Horseshoe cabaret in Times Square, the Varvatos guy aches to be wild and spontaneous, yet he's also feeling careful and thinking about longevity. He relishes the past, but he's irrevocably drawn to the future. The word 'depth' popped up a couple of times, and in that moment it seemed as if he were skating along a double entendre -referring to the collective bigger picture as much as the collection's micro-details. Was he ? "You mean all the shit that's been going on ? Oh, yeah". But this was a cultivated expression of restless angst, a "nonchalant cool", he said. While a rock'n'roll vibe is never far from the surface (and there was, again, that trusted contingent of elder-statesman rockers in attendance), that surface now seemed burnished with a moody dandyism. How else to explain lynx prints, washed velvet, and cracked leather ? There had been, however, a tip-off. In the lead-up to the show, the designer Instagrammed vintage pics of Alice Cooper and Iggy Pop, both with an animal element in the frame and the latter working one of his swishier poses. If a coat defines a man, John Varvatos has at least found meaning in that. Here, his coats and jackets -tonal, layered, featherlight, and fiercely unslouchy- dominated the 40 looks. Think double-breasted, button-festooned jackets; simpler striped blazers; a leather car coat; slim officer jackets; a lounge jacket lined in leopard print; a biker, of course; and one very shaggy piece with a dropped collar (okay, that one was slouchy). "I feel like the days of wearing a big shearling coat without much underneath are over", the designer mused. And with that, another double entendre : "This isn't the climate we're used to. We need to dress differently. It needs to be a refined rebellion".

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