Happiness is to be found when in pursuit of it, in the soothed expectation, on the way, not only upon the arrival. Accepting detours, just going the way, which is anyhow not this obvious to anyone.
Thomas Bettinelli

Happiness is just a hairflip away.
Chris Crocker


"The way the system works now, you see the clothes, within an hour or so they're online, the world sees them. They don't get to a store for six months. The next week, young celebrity girls are wearing them on red carpets. They're in every magazine. The customer is bored with those clothes by the time they get to the store. They're overexposed, you're tired of them, they've lost their freshness".
Tom Ford


Walter van Beirendonck

In "Alice in Wonderland", the Hatter poses a riddle : "why is a raven like a writing desk ?" His answer is : "I haven't the slightest idea !" That futile search for an answer, for truth, is something that has been obsessing Walter van Beirendonck's work lately. You may be forgiven for overlooking it, given how jovial his clothes consistently appear, splattered with color and pattern. But there's darkness there. For this season, the Belgian designer titled his show after the Hatter's unsolvable conundrum. He has been watching, and commenting through his clothing, as the world has wound itself into a tangled mess over the past few seasons. There's been a visceral anger. Perhaps this time around he decided it was all a little too much ? The slogans printed on WvB's clothes underlined the apocalyptic note, "Reflection through Destruction" being the blackest. How do you know what you've got until it's gone ? Another message was "Future Folk", which seemed to connect with the handicraft evident in Walter van Beirendonck's creations. A credit for wearable art pieces alluded to Arcimboldean constructs of plastic combs and household items, chained together to make tabards with faces peering out. Yet more winked out from jackets, grosgrain ribbon framing holes cut through to the flesh and trailing streamers, like strange folkloric dress. He used Staphorster stipwerk, a traditional Dutch printing method, on a series of outerwear pieces. The town of Staphorst, where this fabric is produced -the designer credited a local craftsman- is notable for its devout adherence to orthodox Calvinism, best illustrated by the fact that many inhabitants sport traditional Dutch costume long outmoded elsewhere in the country. Walter van Beirendonck's iterations had a "W" worked into the surface. That was the folk. What about the only notable slogan -"Brutal Beauty" ? That was best evoked through the closing series of bondage-strapped suits in somber colors. Protection, punk or prison ? You can be sure they weren't intended to just chime with the utility feel we've seen across the rest of the season. The Belgian designer once stated that, even when discussing something tough, he always tries to tell it in a lighthearted and positive way. That can sometimes mean his clothes wind up feeling childlike or innocent, when in actual fact they are extremely knowing -just as Alice's Wonderland is, perhaps, too dark to be quite the children's classic it has become. That book is frequently dubbed "literary nonsense", a broad categorization of writing that subverts logic and language convention. It sometimes seems to have no meaning but always has a message. The same is true of Walter van Beirendonck's fashion. ❤

I'm reading: Walter van BeirendonckTweet this!