Happiness is to be found when in pursuit of it, in the soothed expectation, on the way, not only upon the arrival. Accepting detours, just going the way, which is anyhow not this obvious to anyone.
Thomas Bettinelli



Happiness is just a hairflip away.
Chris Crocker

A NEW CLIP EVERY WEEK HERE

"The way the system works now, you see the clothes, within an hour or so they're online, the world sees them. They don't get to a store for six months. The next week, young celebrity girls are wearing them on red carpets. They're in every magazine. The customer is bored with those clothes by the time they get to the store. They're overexposed, you're tired of them, they've lost their freshness".
Tom Ford
















5.02.2017

Boris Bidjan Saberi

Boris Bidjan Saberi was quick to clear up one potential misunderstanding : those Hannibal Lecter metal mouth shields are not a statement about freedom of expression. Actually, it's all about aesthetics and the complications of technological advancement. "The main theme is half-human, half-machine", the designer explained backstage in the sweltering last minutes before the show. The collection's title, "Post-humanism", means that BBS's men forge for themselves whatever they might be missing. "It's about improvisation and things that are self-made and incorporated into the body", he said. "It's invasive technology". When Boris Bidjan Saberi hones in on an idea, he pushes it to the limit. Here, the metal story played out as a study in color and texture as they relate to what happens when metal weathers the elements. "Natural industrial black metal degrades to brown and superficial rust is actually yellow", he observed. Hence the corroded palette, as in a pair of sulfur-hued, paper-thin boxing shorts in horse leather. Latex, vinyl, and wax treatments brought interesting textures to "road-drifter" silhouettes, defined by wrinkled drop-crotch trousers and the complex, architectural jackets and coats that are the designer's strong suit. Sleeveless trenches were razor-sharp, while laser-cut vests with modular linings were paired with thermo-sealed canvas parkas with metallic taped seams. Even large openwork knits were dyed to resemble metal mesh, to striking effect. These experiments ultimately led the designer into a project with the mountain-gear specialist Salomon, for whom he made a "trekking, running, mountain version of a sneaker". On the runway, these were dyed yellow, although the ones the designer wears are black. It remains to be seen whether men will embrace the corset-like vests Boris Bidjan Saberi calls exoskeletons (and those who do clearly roam free of a classic work environment). "Our inspiration is mostly artistic. I never have men -or women- in mind. In the end it's just a reflection of my style", the designer said. That style shows no shortage of ideas. It makes one wonder what the Saberi man might look like when he gets dressed to go someplace that's not postapocalyptic. That could be pretty cool, too.

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