Happiness is to be found when in pursuit of it, in the soothed expectation, on the way, not only upon the arrival. Accepting detours, just going the way, which is anyhow not this obvious to anyone.
Thomas Bettinelli



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Chris Crocker

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"The way the system works now, you see the clothes, within an hour or so they're online, the world sees them. They don't get to a store for six months. The next week, young celebrity girls are wearing them on red carpets. They're in every magazine. The customer is bored with those clothes by the time they get to the store. They're overexposed, you're tired of them, they've lost their freshness".
Tom Ford
















4.10.2017

Palmiers du Mal

Brandon Capps and Shane Fonner of Palmiers du Mal followed up their début with a collection that emphasized a clear understanding of the way that their customers -of both genders, as demonstrated by the male and female models included in the casting- want to dress now. There was a palpable looseness and a sense of ease to the clothes; nothing uptight or too done, but instead a relaxed wardrobe for the man who realizes the appeal in actually making an effort, sartorially speaking. Essentially, last season's robed bohemian seemed to have graduated to something a little more soigné. Natty little silk scarves were knotted at the neck and worn over tee-shirts that occasionally boasted tongue-in-cheek graphics like SIMP (a play on the word simpleton, inspired by an inside joke between the designers), or Vogue Gowanus. Trousers -best in Japanese denim and cream-color canvas- came in a wide-leg, slightly retro silhouette, or a long languid line of striped silk. There were tweed safari jackets and Technicolor hobo coats, asymmetrical toppers in African yellow mud cloth and multiple iterations of a double-tie Noragi jacket. Shane Fonner was married in Morocco, and that country's fashion history has had a strong influence on the line, most obviously in the caftans, which the designers cut in tie-dyed tangerine and indigo, or a more demure écru. A standout zip-front "lounge jacket" was both structured and soft, crafted in creamy canvas that was originally sourced for Shane Fonner's wife, Jane Lerman, and her handbag line, Blacksea. It should prove to be the trend-averse's answer to the inundation of bombers in stores and on the streets beyond. The conceit behind Palmiers du Mal relies on a few things : a customer possessing both the lifestyle and the inclination to dress like a member of the jet set, among them, as well as the confidence inherent to the ability to pull off, say, a caftan under an embroidered silk cardigan. But these days, that's actually not as rare as you might think. Thanks to the rise of the Internet and the arguable democratization of the industry, never before has an interest in men's fashion been as widespread, nor the barrier to entry as a participant so low. In a world of sellout $700 hoodies and heated online auctions of limited-edition sneakers, if Brandon Capps and Shane Fonner had any doubts about being on the right track, the eager frenzy over those SIMP shirts backstage ought to settle their worries; the tumult over their tailored pieces is likely to follow soon after.

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