The color palette and post-Mondrian gridded patterns of Fascist-era Italian painter Manlio Rho were the catalysts for creative director Mauro Ravizza Krieger's this-season expansion of the Pal Zileri horizon. Like others in Milan, Pal Zileri is a house rooted in tailoring -but it is looking to shake off any intimation of anachronistic formality for something more future-facing to ensure its 500-plus-employee manufacturing facility stays busy. Here, MRK played with faded purples and greens, plus a punchy ochre and some dense berry, in printed silk shirts, loose pants, and jackets that were a very attractively soft alternative to traditional eveningwear. There was more silk -plenty more- in parkas of black and green shantung and camp-collar boxy-cut short-sleeved shirts plus shorts. The designer's search for quirk sometimes didn't work; jeans with 3-inch black leather turn-ups serve no one. However, his edge-cut leather outerwear and perforated suede polos and Bermuda shorts (particularly the Bermudas) had a fine look and feel. In a nutshell, it lacked homogeneity.