Jeffrey Rüdes is still in a Seventies-era frame of mind for this season, but instead of a golden age jet-set inspiration, he's turned his sights on a distinctly Californian combo of bohemian flair and urbane polish. The biggest talking point ? "Slightly", though definitely noticeably, flared trousers. On models they looked exaggerated, but on Mr Rüdes, who wore a pair in black, they looked smart, and almost could remind you of the modern-day dandy style being popularized by the hotshot newcomer Grace Wales Bonner. For Jeffrey Rüdes, the unorthodox shape worked, as did an elongated wool gabardine coat that can only be described as a crossbreed of a traditional gold-buttoned blue blazer and a mac jacket. Those in favor of more conservative proportions will find pieces here, too. A Javanese washed silk shirt jacket stood out, as did a silken button-down, printed with a Japanese-inspired avian motif (instead of a crane, JR and co inserted a bald eagle). A beautifully made paper-thin leather trench won best in show, and Velcro-closured shoes also drew stares. Last but not least : if you haven't been to Jeffrey Rüdes's Greene Street store in Manhattan, stop by, it's impressive.