It's immediately clear from the kind of crowd it draws each season that Discovered is one of Tokyo's edgier menswear brands. Three-floors deep in the basement of Omotesando Hills, the city's best-dressed street-heads queued up as bass thumped from inside the show space, to see what duo-designers Tatsuya Kimura & Sanae Yoshida would bring to the table this time. The word that buzzes around most when talking about Discovered is kakkoii, roughly the masculine equivalent of kawaii, which is generally translated as 'cool', but with a little more oomph. It comes as no surprise that the brand's designers have roots in Osaka, Tokyo's grittier Kansai cousin. The title of this collection, "Stick out", was taken from the 1993 album of the same name by Japanese punk band The Blue Hearts. "When that album came out I was sixteen", said Tatsuya Kimura after the show. "At the time, I thought it was boring, but I listened to it recently and got a lot of inspiration". That inspiration came from what he calls the 'cold' lyrics of the album, and the resulting collection was a selection of post-modern, neo-punk streetwear that could well be described as Tokyo's answer to Hood By Air. DJ Hiroshi Kawanabe played the decks in the center of a scaffolded runway, which models stormed down to a mix of hostile techno, their faces adorned with stick-on studs like metallic acne, hair backcombed into mohawks, and New Romantic makeup that could have been taken straight out of a Steve Strange Blitz club night. The references in the clothes were closer to the turn of the century, with ’90s rave culture palpable in the neon socks and gloves that popped through the mostly-black collection -if the goth/raver Nu Grave subculture never really took off, its time could be now. Teva-esque sandals continued their trend-climb too, and were made from studded leather. The injection of indigo and black velour was a high point, and provided a welcome change of texture in this icily dark collection.