Happiness is to be found when in pursuit of it, in the soothed expectation, on the way, not only upon the arrival. Accepting detours, just going the way, which is anyhow not this obvious to anyone.
Thomas Bettinelli

Happiness is just a hairflip away.
Chris Crocker


"The way the system works now, you see the clothes, within an hour or so they're online, the world sees them. They don't get to a store for six months. The next week, young celebrity girls are wearing them on red carpets. They're in every magazine. The customer is bored with those clothes by the time they get to the store. They're overexposed, you're tired of them, they've lost their freshness".
Tom Ford


Christopher Kane

"Everyone is a target, when it comes to grief, or theft", said Christopher Kane. He posted a rainbow watercolor on his Instagram account with brokenhearted sympathy for the victims of Orlando, and the caption #NOTOHATECRIMES. He was standing in his store in Mount Street with his sister Tammy in London, explaining how they had grown up in Scotland in the Eighties and Ninities surrounded by a culture where football hooliganism, sectarian Catholic-Protestant gang tensions, and standoffs with the police were a regular part of life. That is how the idea of graphics used by British police for shooting-range targets ended up on his parkas and bags in the men's collection he was previewing. "I’ve been working on it for four months. It's about our childhood near Glasgow, and what we saw then; that is what I always do". The sensations of fear experienced in his teenage years are always shot through his work somewhere, but this time, all too obviously, the imagery has accidentally accrued a traumatic overlay of topicality. The unintended contextual perception on this day, of all days, is painful -but then again, it links back to the terror of male violence that Mr Kane has seen with his own eyes and abhorred since childhood. Perhaps he will be judged for making a poor judgment here, but more fairly, should not the judgment be on the enduring scourge that makes this subject one ever more unavoidable in our culture ? Anyway, the subject of gangs and subcultures per se is one of the wellsprings of menswear, and hardly a divergent source. With Christopher Kane, it's specific : the working class -or rather, unemployed class- of neds who Tammy Kane remembers meeting for pitched battles in Motherwell on a Saturday afternoon after Celtic-Rangers soccer matches. "You knew to keep out of the shopping center on match days". Neds, though ? "Non-educated delinquents !" she translated. "Even though they were poor, mind you, they were always immaculately dressed, with clean socks and wearing Stone Island", her brother chimed in. "And Versace Jeans Couture, Galliano and Westwood". Well, what lad would guess at this backstory when approaching a store rail with pieces of this Christopher Kane collection hanging on it ? Whether he's attracted to the giant pansy-pattern sweater or the pink cotton tee-shirt that reminds him of prison-inmate uniform, or the reflective techno thread in the stay-pressed pants, no matter. It's only clothes, though definitely not ones to go looking for a fight in.
To get the fashion crowd excited about its $160 million live-action adaptation of "Beauty and the Beast", Disney is releasing right now an unusually sophisticated capsule collection with Christopher Kane. He created a suite of 30 eco-conscious luxury wares for men and women that range from rose-covered tee-shirts to Gainsborough silk coats. The offering stays true to both the designer's eclectic aesthetic and the film's whimsical spirit -a hard balance to strike, but one that Mr Kane said he found rewarding. "Honestly, it was wonderful because they put a lot of faith in me and trusted me every step of the way".

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