Putting the Kama Sutra into suiting via a jacquard of athletically impressive positions of mutual pleasure was just one amongst multiple thrills in Moncler's art director Francesco Ragazzi's own collection. Very vaguely about rebellion and festivals and a Venice Beach skateboarder he once took a photograph of who he thought looked like Jimi Hendrix, this collection was a carefully tended stew containing a slew of evergreen youth culture staples. There were military pieces, including one M-65 jacket the Italian designer said had taken scores of man-hours to rip and fray just so, and appropriated approximations of Walmart and Sports Authority–sourced deer-print hunting gear. A women's dungaree was layered with badges featuring the gothic-font PA initials as eyes on a smiley face : another nod to high-production values applied to clothing of low provenance. Loungewear, grunge-touched pajamas, bucket hats, and hoodies -featuring that smiley- similarly played counterweight to a tiger-print fur coat and that exactingly produced X-rated tailoring. The Palm Angels manifesto is not rocket science, yet Francesco Ragazzi has a coolhunter's eye for delivering with-a-twist tweaks on long-established templates. In a nutshell, this is disappointing.