Happiness is to be found when in pursuit of it, in the soothed expectation, on the way, not only upon the arrival. Accepting detours, just going the way, which is anyhow not this obvious to anyone.
Thomas Bettinelli

Happiness is just a hairflip away.
Chris Crocker


"The way the system works now, you see the clothes, within an hour or so they're online, the world sees them. They don't get to a store for six months. The next week, young celebrity girls are wearing them on red carpets. They're in every magazine. The customer is bored with those clothes by the time they get to the store. They're overexposed, you're tired of them, they've lost their freshness".
Tom Ford


Vivienne Westwood

"Be specific" was the forthright instruction from Vivienne Westwood's show for this season, in reference to particular causes the Dame wanted to address : saving our ocean, saving our rainforest and saving Venice. The activist designer was seen protesting at London's #ClimateMarch, calling for measures to be taken in order to save our planet -'our' being the key word. This penchant for taking advantage of the catwalk as a polemic platform has long been a Westwood hallmark. Speaking of platforms. This season the Westwood man stood tall (around 4 inches, to be exact) on wedged shoes and high-heeled brogues. And this androgynous theme continued upwards, and throughout. Asymmetrical dresses draped loosely, paired with cardigans, heavy knits, or individually as statement on their own. Suits began loose before slimming to a more tailored fit, epitomizing that debonair style that underpins Westwood's off-kilter aesthetic. Jacquard, autumnal knits and a standout shearling jacket added some warmth to the collection, whilst phallic shaped metallic necklaces hung around models' necks -typical of Westwood's sense of rebellious playfulness, a trait synonymous with her oeuvre. With a medieval influence this collection drew on three characters : the criminal, the peasant, the joker -and the roles they play in society. The criminal is a representation of the politician who wields power over the peasant, using the joker as a pawn in his plans. He is elegant and cunning in his tailored suits and bold silhouettes. The peasant appears in loose draping and shapes, natural rustic colors that embody the innocent and rugged elegance of the medieval public. He characterizes the naïve and unsuspecting public in todayis society. The joker is the pawn in the criminal's game embodying the medieval court jester in slim, cropped and playful silhouettes. You will find children's drawings and colorful prints throughout this character representing the irony and innocence of this character. Against a stomping soundtrack -courtesy of longtime collaborator, Paris-based composer Dominik Emrich- Vivienne Westwood’'s renegade mantra rang out, perfectly in tune with the clothes on display. This isn't a sterile plea for change, this is four-on-the-floor insistence. As the lights dimmed for the finale the David Bowie's Starman faded in as a tribute to the man who's signature shared the same petition as Westwood's calling for change at November's Paris climate summit. There was boy as well as girl in this menswear show. Suiting was exaggerated at the shoulder and suppressed at the leg and wrist : cropped and chopped and changed -reassigned. On the way out, one retail buyer said : "They do all this, and then you get to the showroom and it's full of great commercial stuff". Seditious on the runway and solicitous off it. Marketing it is.

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