Happiness is to be found when in pursuit of it, in the soothed expectation, on the way, not only upon the arrival. Accepting detours, just going the way, which is anyhow not this obvious to anyone.
Thomas Bettinelli



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Chris Crocker

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"The way the system works now, you see the clothes, within an hour or so they're online, the world sees them. They don't get to a store for six months. The next week, young celebrity girls are wearing them on red carpets. They're in every magazine. The customer is bored with those clothes by the time they get to the store. They're overexposed, you're tired of them, they've lost their freshness".
Tom Ford
















1.19.2017

Neil Barrett

Surveying the landscape of progressive, sports-sourced 21st-century menswear monochrome rules : olive, navy and gray play supporting roles, and any other color is probably branding related. The flash of scarlet on a Supreme logo, the fiery orange lick of a Thrasher logo, etc... Neil Barrett is a rigorous modernist who revels in articulating his finely drafted, wearable sublimations in technologically advanced fabrications -that’s pretty black and white. He's great, and the clothes are too, but it can feel cold. Though, Mr Barrett succumbed to a welcomingly warm rush of emotion. A flush of nostalgia. "I really wanted to make it personal", he stated. The designer looked back, way back, to his Seventies spent in the wildly wet west of England's Devon -a beautiful county, but quiet. He projected his memories of leafing through NME and being a terrible snob about music -"If it was in the hit parade, I wasn't interested"- plus the clothes he had and the clothes he wanted. And because this was Britain in the 1970s (Neil Barrett was born in 1965), that leads us back to brown -the color of the second Wilson government and power strikes and austerity. Mr Barrett harked back to his earliest, leather heavy collections, too, in an opening section of carefully observed shearling pieces. These were underscored with typically NB track pants, brown, in fancy nylon cut short and slim. There were track tops in dense Japanese nylon panelled by modernist shoulder panel extensions. There was color we had never seen before, apparently inspired by his preteen infatuation with soccer shirts. At the end Neil Barrett reverted to type with a bomber and sweatshirt plastered with a digital print of a swooping eagle. But for a while the designer was unabashedly British -properly Basil Fawlty- and it was kind of wonderful.

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