The fact that Jason Basmajian makes his official début at Cerruti 1881 as chief creative officer is telling he is charged with the design, but he also brings a business outlook. Usually, one imperative has an edge over the other. This first presentation would suggest the advantage goes to both. Most recently the creative director of Savile Row label Gieves & Hawkes (and before that, artistic director at Brioni), his point of view is resolutely sartorial; the collection consisted of total looks, all richly tone-on-tone, with not a single finishing touch awry. But what he referred to as a "tailoring backbone" was not executed by rote; much better to have textural layering (Prince of Wales check, three ways) as a general rule. A technical silk blouson that reversed to leather nicely advanced the core brand value of everyday finesse, as did a tweed twill drawstring jogging pant, and a compact tablet-size case in leather and croc. "I think it's a question of breaking down the codes to arrive at how a man dresses todayé, Mr Basmajian said. In fact, he has chosen not to mine the archives, instead, visiting Nino Cerruti himself (now 86). Standing in front of a model wearing a shearling paneled with waterproof flannel, the designer-executive insisted that his role is not to remake, à la Hollywood films (the brand's deep connection with cinema was acknowledged in a screen projecting Cary Grant). More than once, he commented that the collection contained "no superfluous detail", which is preferable to one that requires a heavy edit. But in fashion, that extra flourish can be a welcome mark of character. Jason Basmajian happened to have a bejeweled cricket brooch affixed to his lapel. A little (lucky) charm goes a long way.