Happiness is to be found when in pursuit of it, in the soothed expectation, on the way, not only upon the arrival. Accepting detours, just going the way, which is anyhow not this obvious to anyone.
Thomas Bettinelli



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"The way the system works now, you see the clothes, within an hour or so they're online, the world sees them. They don't get to a store for six months. The next week, young celebrity girls are wearing them on red carpets. They're in every magazine. The customer is bored with those clothes by the time they get to the store. They're overexposed, you're tired of them, they've lost their freshness".
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1.10.2017

Calvin Klein Collection

Icon is an overused term across contemporary culture, not just in fashion. It's in current rotation to describe everything from a hamburger to a lipstick. Hysterical fangirls orgasmically scream for Cameron Dallas, Tyler Oakley, Joey Graceffa, Nash Grier, Connor Franta or Shawn Mendes... Names that almost no one in the fashion industry has heard of. That’s the thing about icons; there aren’t that many that everyone can agree on. Italo Zucchelli has more than a few at his disposal at Calvin Klein, though -garment-wise, the logoed waistband and the world’s first wildly successful designer denims rank up high; there are also those tanned, toned and semi-clad demigods immortalized by Bruce Weber, the kind of guys those teenage girls would have been screaming for twenty years ago. Foiled nylon in gold, platinum, and copper framed the faces and bodies of those dudes' contemporary counterparts, the buffed-out models that make a Calvin Klein show look utterly different from anything else in menswear. I couldn’t help but think they looked a little like gilded icons of suspiciously good-looking saints. But maybe that wasn’t intentional. Italo Zucchelli built his collection this time around on another icon : the man's suit. "I wanted to show the universal power of men's tailoring", he said. He decided to do that by putting his men's suits on women for the first time -the boldface model likes of Mariacarla Boscono, Iselin Steiro, Jessica Miller and Gemma Ward. They're not exactly Linda, Christy, Claudia or Naomi, but the former foursome, they do have an instant-recognition factor. "It's sensual, sexual", said the designer of those Calvin suits, worn over bare skin by male and female alike. They were impeccably cut -sometimes so perfectly you didn't realize quite how they built out the muscular models into Superman proportions. Not that they weren't already naturally endowed : it takes a special type of man to look good in the CK-waistbanded long-underwear-as-outerwear that bottomed suit jackets at the end of the show. We all know what that means. Transformation, however, is a fascinating theme in fashion -and particularly here at Klein. Italo Zucchelli transformed denim into a jacquard, painstakingly woven in a trompe l'œil of daily wear and tear, making the everyday precious. He first used that jean jacquard for the previous season -so they lacked the pleasant frisson of surprise. Ditto the foiling, which was reminiscent of a very specific Helmut Lang collection. No one was foiled. Alchemy was the reference Mr Z tossed out -apparently, it’s something he’s wildly enthusiastic about, and has a library full of reference books on the subject. It did make sense, both as the ostensible inspiration behind all that metallic nylon, pumping up the visual impact of utilitarian anoraks and MA1 jackets; and perhaps of the front row presence of the enigmatic Cameron Dallas -recently transformed into pop culture platinum via the alchemic power of 21st-century social media. Did Italo Zucchelli alchemize gold from Calvin Klein with this collection ? Not quite. The suits were slick, but serviceable; the metallic linings were arresting, but they felt restricted to editorial. There wasn't enough of that truly iconic CK branding, either. On the whole, the designer delivered a show that was a fairly solid silver, clad in a well-cut black suit. But probably not enough for Calvin Klein as warlock Italo Zucchelli was let go quietly in the aftermath.

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