Boris Bidjan Saberi has a way with leather : he spends his days dyeing, re-dyeing, working and molding it for some of his most popular designs. But for this season he took a different tack, naming his collection "Squadron" in tribute to the parachutes that inspired it. "My inspiration always goes beyond the static form, because I am more interested in the story behind the product", he explained backstage before his show, recounting factory visits where he studied how parachutes are made. The Barcelona-based, German-Persian designer then set about transposing what he had learned about systems and details into a short collection of statement pieces in shades of gray from dove to slate, such as a long sweater run through with tabs in front and drawstrings in back so that it can scrunch up to cropped bomber length, the folds making for interesting volume in back. Elsewhere, a belt tunneled through the inside of a weathered gray shearling vest. On one sleeveless jacket, BBS brought the mechanics of parachute making to the surface, veiling tape, stitching, and horsehair padding with organza. The standout : a coat done in black thermo-sealed canvas, which had been oxidized until it was mottled gray and its original hue was only evident underneath taped-over seams. Boris Bidjan Saberi's guys are warriors at heart, even if he's a pacifist. "To me this is really fast-forward", he said. "I don't think my job is just about dressing men nicely. I want them to feel comfortable and strong and nice and sexy. But in the end, I think my job is to push my brain and make people think". After nearly a decade building his business, the designer is spreading his wings. On the runway, he unveiled his first collection of sunglasses in sterling silver, some mounted on a headband with a flip-up design, the result of his new partnership with Werkstatt München. Next up : a fragrance done with German nose Geza Schoen with a leather dominant note in tribute to the vegetable leathers BBS favors. "It's leather but it's fresh, so it gives you energy", he offered. Once he shakes a little freer of his Rick Owens–ian leanings, Boris Bidjan Saberi will soar. But why is that his stores are open "by appointment only" ?