London-based Austrian designer Raimund Berthold's label is characterized by a utilitarian sense of color and silhouettes free from defined shapes; nylon, neoprene and synthetic fabrics cut against natural wool and cotton. Bold clothes for men led by inventive design and fit -not by fashion per se. For this season's offering, research focused on the sculptural quality of religious habits and, as always, the life-jackets and uniforms worn by the British army during World War II. The performative sculptures by influential German artist Franz Erhard Walther (now 77) were also a key reference. Since the early Sixties, he has posed fundamental questions about the conventional idea of the artwork as a fixed pedestal -or wall- bound 'thing'. From 1978 up to 1986 he conceived a unique series of installations that he named 'wallformations', made using sheets of canvas and basic clothing patterns. The largest piece from the series entitled Wallform Gelbmodellierung (1980/81) was shown at Art Basel Unlimited last year. Encouraged by its dramatic scale, economic use of color (a luminous yellow) and minimalist rigour, Raimund Berhold has showed how clothing can encase the body in an uncomplicated free way.