Happiness is to be found when in pursuit of it, in the soothed expectation, on the way, not only upon the arrival. Accepting detours, just going the way, which is anyhow not this obvious to anyone.
Thomas Bettinelli



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Chris Crocker

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"The way the system works now, you see the clothes, within an hour or so they're online, the world sees them. They don't get to a store for six months. The next week, young celebrity girls are wearing them on red carpets. They're in every magazine. The customer is bored with those clothes by the time they get to the store. They're overexposed, you're tired of them, they've lost their freshness".
Tom Ford
















11.29.2016

Officine Générale

There was no political statement in Pierre Mahéo's decision to reorient Officine Générale's show from its Left Bank home to the far left -as in, Oscar Niemeyer's historic work of architecture built as the Communist Party headquarters in Paris already used by Thom Browne (here) and Dries van Noten (there). To him, the retro-future setting reinforced the idea that good design endures. He expressed this in a personal letter -definitely not a manifesto- in which he wrote that the discovery of his grandfather's bomber jacket prompted him to deconstruct its timeless details. The show opened with his updated version, a so-called "coat-sweater" in polished navy wool with a redeveloped knit collar and barely there quilted lining. The matching slim pants set the tone for the rest of the collection : relaxed, yet precise. Subsequent looks reflected Monsieur Mahéo's stance on lasting style : a sandstone coat over a technical hoodie and skinny jeans, both in gray; the frayed edge of a collarless shirt poking out from an alpaca sweater; and the judicious pops of teal and berry in an otherwise neutral offering. Ironically, his idea of newness -a foray into black- couldn’t be any more classic. But the classic sneakers now available in his breathable, waterproof "Storm System" flannel qualify as a big deal (at least for those who live in cold, rainy cities). What stood out most within this venue : how everything came together thanks to Pierre Mahéo's sense of line and proportion. Much the same way that the Brazilian architect dropped the ceiling to adjust the spatial experience, the designer cut his cabans, blazers, and blousons a touch shorter and trimmer than usual, giving the looks a sleeker appeal. While drawing a parallel between the curved outline of pockets on a leather jacket and the curved concrete walls might be over-intellectualizing, the evidence of good construction was pure and not so simple.

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