Asked how he hoped Adidas Originals’s latest collaborative collection should appear to the eye on first sight, the company’s vice president of global design, Nic Galway, said, "Familiar but new". Yosuke Aizawa’s label White Mountaineering, hit that semiotically entangled brief bang on in Florence at Pitti. The German sportswear brand’s iconography were disassembled then reapplied by the Japanese designer at unexpected angles across leggings, shorts and jackets, in which you could see the skeleton structures of the Eighties pieces he had struck upon while sifting through the Adidas archive. Yosuke Aizawa, formerly part of Junya Watanabe’s design team, is engaged in a rigorous mission of incorporating outdoors gear and sportswear into a fashion-led "lifestyle" context in his own label; he says he has spent a decade agonizing about how best to do it. This incorporation was reflected here. Male streetwear now is a mixture of sports, military, and other utilitarian-conceived pieces appropriated for urban recreation. The models walked under a grid of sub-triangles, each etched in fluorescent lightbulbs, which, via ingenious set design, lowered by rope and pulley from the roof above each look and (brave) model. But the production, while ingenious, was distracting. Although there was no great ambition in these pieces -really, the collection was a very carefully handled curatorship of signs- it was interesting as an exercise in assimilation. Especially strong were the camouflage padded jackets overlaid with a triple crisscross check and the bombers and mutated M-65 jackets cut in shades of green panels. Sole shapes from the Nineties were blended with Yeezy-ish Primeknit uppers in the all-important sneaker category. Athleisure feels like last year’s word, but this felt like this year’s athleisure -so, new word needed.