There's a great pair of shoes in Jun Takahashi's collection for this season. The left is printed with the word "Chaos", the right, "Balance". The shoes themselves -like the collection itself- sit between those two notions. The title of this collection was "Instant calm", according to the grave disciple of Takahashi -who doesn’t stage his menswear as a runway show, which allows you instead to inspect the quiet subversion of the pieces, like the expletive-riddled Patti Smith lyrics to "Babelogue" hidden on the collar stand of a jacket. The lack of a hectic headlong rush into a show space to see a hectic headlong rush of product is, in its way, instantly calming. But Jun Takahashi was more interested in the illusion of relaxation, cutting his tailoring looser, including printed pajama styles and easier trousers and sportswear pieces like varsity cardigans. The cool, calm, eerily collected work of Belgian artist Michaël Borremans -whose paintings resemble sedate Renaissance Flemish masterpieces, but with tweaks that push them into the realm of the grotesque and alarming- were an inspiration. The designer used the painter's work for his womenswear collection last year : the plastic face masks that deformed models’ features referenced a Michaël Borremans’s painting from 2007, and other paintings were printed on dresses. Here, they appeared on knitwear and sporty outerwear in various guises. They were still disquieting. An embroidered motif elsewhere in the collection extolled observers to "Have a weird weekend". It was a weird thing to see on a Saturday morning. Jun Takahashi likes creeping people out. His overblown chintzes were infected with maggots and bugs; his backpacks sprouted batwings. Even his hats had horns. Apparently, this collection was supposed to feel a little more mature -so the horns were magnetic, therefore detachable. It’s not about destroying the devil inside, but maybe sometimes you don’t want him to be visible to the naked eye. Indeed.