Todd Snyder is well on his way to becoming the "next great American designer", as the Iowa native so casually divulged backstage with nonchalant certainty. Since his last outing, he’s been acquired by American Eagle Outfitters (with an investment to the tune of $11 million) and announced plans to open a 5,000-square-foot flagship on Madison Avenue and 26th Street. So if he isn’t where he wants to be yet, he’s at least moved well past the wishful-thinking phase. The looks on this runway, his largest show to date, mirrored his tried-and-true, classics-with-a-twist men’s vision. He took his lead from the Swiss architect Peter Zumthor, both in the natural-wood backdrop and in the modernist merging of outdoor ruggedness and indoor refinement. Traditional materials such as camel and tweed were given high-tech detailing, like waterproof membrane bonding, while parka flannel was coated in Teflon, and a tracksuit Todd Snyder pointed out backstage was made of plated tech wool. The show ended with blue and gray velvet tuxedos shown with wool turtlenecks in place of bow ties. Collaborations were omnipresent. The designer worked with Brit brand Private White VC on a weatherproof cotton, Ventile, that he whipped up into trenchcoats and hooded marsh coats. He also partnered on military-style vests and liners with Rocky Mountain Featherbed, based in Japan. Suede boots on the finer side were made with cushioned performance soles from Cole Haan. Add to that a retro watch style with Timex. Before launching his eponymous label, Todd Snyder held senior design positions at Polo Ralph Lauren, Gap, and J.Crew. Now, chosen to close New York Fashion Week: Men’s, he seems poised to grab the elusive brass ring of American sportswear -household-name status.