Every season, Cadet’s duo Raúl Arévalo & Brad Schmidt pick one wartime photograph for inspiration. This time, it was a snap taken during WWII of, straightforwardly, Morse code. "Long and short signals", said Brad Schmidt. "So we did a shorter jacket and a longer pant". The latter is of the greatest interest; Cadet makes a truly killer trouser. A couple here had an athletic cuff -somewhat of a house signature- while others came in charcoal wool, with button-closure ankles that marched up to the mid-shin (the effect provided the slightest humorous relief to the show’s austere styling and moody soundtrack). A closing flight pant -matched with a coordinating trenchcoat above- boasted a cool "smoke-screen" motif on a nylon-wool blend. Said Raúl Arévalo : "the print is from radio waves carrying top-secret messages". Not something that can be made up indeed. Military is forever the label’s modus operandi. And the rigidity that comes with militarism is sometimes overwhelming; you want to see these clothes live, breathe, and not look as though they’re part of a roll call. Perhaps that will be achieved when they are de-coupled and worn IRL. On a high note, a ray of street savviness and approachability presented itself in Cadet’s latest collaboration : high-tops, in black-on-black or silver foil, with Greats, a Brooklyn-based footwear startup.