Astrid Andersen elevates sports-sourced streetwear -the daily uniform of so many people nowadays- through the application of lushly luxurious fabrications and decorative detail. She shows a couture line in Paris that’s heavy on fur; this main line has featured both fur and lace for a while now, and she loves a pastel. The Danish designer challenges her customers to assert the full extent of their masculinity over clothes touched by the froufrou. This show seemed to represent a departure from that template. Two all-gray woolen tracksuits with popper pockets seemed downright dour. And wait, was that a loose wool notch-lapel overcoat ? Admittedly, the coat was worn over track pants with a panel of golden Sophie Hallette lace above the knee -yet this felt like a daring, almost retrograde incorporation of the startlingly conventional within the designer’s reliably unconventional aesthetic. Chunky knits rested easily under parkas the wearer could deconstruct by a web of golden zippers. An irregularly folded velour was the basis of a louche tracksuit. Later, there were more woolen remixes of the sweatshirt and dungarees, this time in RAF blue. Sure, there was more lace and a powerful pistachio section for customers determined to draw every eye in the room. And feather-stuffed gauntlets are hardly prosaic items of masculine apparel. Alongside gold, pistachio starred again in the weave of the tweed specially developed by Andersen and Linton, a traditional English fabric supplier. This was an intriguing exercise in inclusivity -by broadening her range, Astrid Andersen demonstrated that her core style could translate well beyond its existing fan base.