Playing proud papa in the park with son Jack placed different demands on Tom Ford's wardrobe for a while. His signature suits took a backseat to more casual clothing, and that was reflected in his collections. Now the pendulum swings again. Welcome back pinstripes and Prince of Wales checks and waistcoats with fob chains and handmade shoes of shiny, shiny leather. "It's fashion", the Texan acknowledged after his presentation. Besides, he added, "I got tired of those dirty, stinky jeans, and they were chafing". Anyway, Tom Ford's identity as a designer has always been about the sharp suit and, as savvy as he is, he knows how vital it is to stick to your identity. But he's as much storyteller as designer now, with a new movie in the making, so his new collection wasn't simply a lot of precision tailoring with a side order of smart casual and some more of that lushly trippy eveningwear he's making a specialty of. If his previous collection evoked the monochrome of David Bailey's mid-Sixties London, Tom Ford kept the time frame but moved the location to New York, specifically Andy Warhol's Factory. By making the clothes so character-driven, he immediately glamorized them (which was, of course, the point of the exercise). That wasn't just a guy in a three-piece pinstripe suit. That was the ghost of Warhol's dandified lieutenant Fred Hughes. On the other side of the sartorial coin, black leather jacket, mock turtle, and white jeans could have been Lou Reed tootling into the Factory for a Velvet Underground jam. With a couple of cues like that, your own imagination filled in the rest. Slim-line tonic mohair suits ? Suedes patchworked like camo ? Cool young Hollywood slumming with Warhol superstars. Mr Ford mentioned Steve McQueen and Paul Newman. The fabulous evening jackets ? They were Tom Ford's Pop Art editions, suitable for framing. This presentation even had a bit of that anything-could-happen Factory looseness (at least as it was depicted in the movie "I shot Andy Warhol"). The margarita-swilling crowd parted and the models wandered through. That all reads a little retro. It wasn't. If Tom Ford hadn't mentioned Warhol and the Factory, it would scarcely have occurred to anyone as the collection's backstory. Instead, everyone would have been following the fob chain to the future. It was customized to fit the Apple Watch. For how much longer will Mr Ford be wearing his Cartier tank ?