Acid. Booze. Molly. LSD. So read the buttons affixed to the commander caps at Pyer Moss’ presentation. Look farther down and you’ll find other messages on the clothing. "You don’t have any friends in LA" proclaims a tongue-in-cheek memo printed on sweatshirts and bomber jackets; another listed symptoms of depression. The show closed with model Drayton Ratcliff carrying a poster stating "My demons won today I’m sorry", the final message of Black Lives Matter activist MarShawn McCarrel, who committed suicide earlier this year. If this all sounds like a dark mood, it’s meant to. Pyer Moss designer Kerby Jean-Raymond likes to tackle heavy themes in his work. Last season he staged a call to action for the Black Lives Matter movement, and today he was focusing on depression, both personal and cultural. Erykah Badu helped style the collection -the hats and buttons were her idea- and the line riffed on the things that keep us down, set to the sounds of a choir singing Future’s "Trap niggas" and the Black National Anthem. For good reason, Kerby Jean-Raymond’s activism has been all his supporters can talk about, but his clothes are really quite good, too. This show offered up streamlined takes on menswear staples like jogger pants and shearling outerwear, but the real heroes of the collection were the items in which the designer pushed the envelope just left of center. A collaboration with Baltimore-based artist Maurice Scarlett birthed cooler-than-normal printed sweatshirts, while a windowpane check coat was as good as, if not better than, any seen at big-name men’s shows this season. Though there were several women’s looks peppered in, it would serve the label better to show during New York Fashion Week: Men’s, where its target audience will pay closer mind to the considered construction and fit.