Fashion is fixated with cruise collections, but London-based Dutch designer Sebastian Pieter, has twisted the label to mean something else entirely. His collection for this season was, well, cruise-y, meaning the gay pickup process enacted every night at bars and clubs throughout the world. It even offered a bordello-scarlet sweater emblazoned with the word, in case you wish to make your intentions crystal clear. Sebastian Pieter, who designs under his surname only, is obsessed with those kind of male-on-male courtship rituals. This was his first on-schedule presentation, though he’s previously designed a trio of collections. The first included knitted sweaters bearing the slogan "Fun?" -a phrase used on Grindr (its second appearance in one day at London’s men’s collections) and an antecedent to the now infamous "Netflix and chill". For this presentation, the models cruised from pillar to post, lounging against handrails, striking come-hither poses, and throwing longing glances at each other while thumping music pumped. It was campy and fun, and the overall effect was that of a nightclub in its dying early-morning embers. "Presentations can look so stiff and straight", the designer said. Actually, he yelled it -for a true clubland experience, it was impossible to hear a thing. You could see, though, and it certainly didn’t look straight. You saw Sebastian Pieter’s slender leather trousers, black shorts with zippered thighs, his oversize shirts and nylon coats with buckled arms, and dangling chain belts and necklaces created with London jeweler Husam el Odeh. The inspiration was a Robert Mapplethorpe photograph, obviously -that straight-up documenter of the homo S&M underbelly. The color palette of Mapplethorpe monochrome bloodied with virulent red, spanked-flesh pink, and a hemoglobin burgundy seemed mined from the same leatherman seam. "Safe and unsafe, pain and pleasure", the designer explained. His "Fun?" crewnecks have proven popular among London’s fashion types who understand the nudge-nudge/wink-wink nature of his Polari-ized sloganeering. They’ll fall into the punny "Cruise" ones with school yard glee. Ditch the knit, though, and you’re left with a collection of well-cut, cleverly colored basics -sportswear in muted shades, a nice pair of leather trousers, a great hooded jacket, a kind of uniform—- with no underlying subversion. That’s something that can appeal to men across the world, as opposed to just its night crawlers.