Happiness is to be found when in pursuit of it, in the soothed expectation, on the way, not only upon the arrival. Accepting detours, just going the way, which is anyhow not this obvious to anyone.
Thomas Bettinelli

Happiness is just a hairflip away.
Chris Crocker


"The way the system works now, you see the clothes, within an hour or so they're online, the world sees them. They don't get to a store for six months. The next week, young celebrity girls are wearing them on red carpets. They're in every magazine. The customer is bored with those clothes by the time they get to the store. They're overexposed, you're tired of them, they've lost their freshness".
Tom Ford



Instead of his usual black suit, Alber Elbaz was wearing silken prints backstage. That maybe said less about this collection than it did his thoughts about the need to stand out in an increasingly crowded fashion environment -who would've guessed he'd be fired shortly thereafter ? "How can we do a show in a digital world ?" he wondered. "You have seven minutes to make it count". The solution he reached with Lucas Ossendrijver seemed to be to pack those seven minutes with as much forward-driving urgency as possible, letting the clothes flow alongside. It might only have been the New Wave-y energy of Flavien Berger's "La Fête Noire " that cued an Eighties mood, but once that idea was planted, the pushed-up sleeves, metallic animal-print accents, and oversize suits, some with paper-bag waists, pointed straight back to that decade. So did pieces -a shiny shirt, a silky baseball jacket, a big tweed coat, a drapey jacket- that recalled the Eighties affection for vintage dressing. In fact, there were slicked-back moments on the Lanvin catwalk that recalled the Mudd Club, New York's early-'80s crucible of New Wave creativity. Lucas Ossendrijver claimed the collection celebrated a renewed passion for craft and manual, artisanal attention to detail. "It's not about decoration", he said. Lanvin's decorations do indeed have a slightly haphazard quality. Is that fringe or just a lot of loose threads ? Well, it's fringe, of course, and it's that sort of ambiguous touch that gives these clothes their very particular personality. Which makes them stand out, in fact.

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