Happiness is to be found when in pursuit of it, in the soothed expectation, on the way, not only upon the arrival. Accepting detours, just going the way, which is anyhow not this obvious to anyone.
Thomas Bettinelli

Happiness is just a hairflip away.
Chris Crocker


"The way the system works now, you see the clothes, within an hour or so they're online, the world sees them. They don't get to a store for six months. The next week, young celebrity girls are wearing them on red carpets. They're in every magazine. The customer is bored with those clothes by the time they get to the store. They're overexposed, you're tired of them, they've lost their freshness".
Tom Ford


Topman Design

"DANZ LIKE YOU'RE NORTHERN" was the slogan on the tank top above the patch-print pants. Northern soul -a Seventies incubated, post-mod, pre-disco underground dance scene centered around obscure rhythm and blues that was big beyond the Midlands- remains one of Britain's most evocative style tribes. Both the dancing and the clothes were expressions of joyous excess. Check out Mark Leckey's "Fiorucci made me hardcore" on YouTube and you get a pretty compelling abstracted timeline of Northern soul through to rave. Gordon Richardson and the team at Topman Design revived many of the classic garments from the Northern soul subculture. There were Oxford bags, pegs (they sure wore massive pants back in the day), and a black knit shirt that was gloriously Gabicci. Capes, printed ribbed turtlenecks, and those crazy-big bags were printed with a collage of ersatz club badges. This wasn't a single-note homage, however. There was a dash of Billy Idol-flavored rocker-ish punk in appliquéd denim vests featuring "DISCO SUCKS" patches; some early Eighties skate in the Slimeballs-touched graphics on one badge; plus the bilious pastels on vulcanized low-tops, worn with colored athletic socks pulled taut and high. Retro sportswear had its run moment via Windrunner-touched cagoule smocks, pistachio GATS and stripe-flashed (two not three) running shorts, and flat-front trackies. There's a certain irony in Topman -a prime mover in the logistically led homogenization of youth attire- so assiduously referencing grassroots subcultures of yore. This, though, seemed more a loving look back than cynical sampling. Bottom line : probably the worst collection of this season.

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