Of all the Parisian clichés, the show in a dark underground venue is the most enduring. It immediately teleports you to the Nineties heyday of alternative radicalism and raw minimalism. It also comes complete with obnoxious groupies and some mess at the door for added charm. This Y/Project show re-enacted the trope. It was hosted at the famed Le Gibus club and included a pitch-dark staircase and a makeshift runway so narrow you could almost touch the clothes. Creative director Glenn Martens, who is Belgian and was schooled in Antwerp, has an architectural approach to fashion-making. He favors clean lines, drastic volumes, surface over decoration, an idea of functionalism. The more time passes since his appointment at Y/Project, the more his sensibility shapes the label, which initially was more of an urban, slightly Rick Owens-y affair. This season's show was his best so far. With its straight cuts and sense of thoughtful minimalism, it had a decidedly late-century flavor. The dramatic topcoats were the best pieces, but all in all the collection lacked a certain coherence. A finer edit will help in the future.