There are photos of David Bowie in 1971 (long-haired, wide-brimmed bippity-boppity hat, ludicrously huge trousers) pushing his three-week-old son Zowie in a pram, wife Angie at his side. From our mundane, homogenized 21st-century vantage point, it looks like aliens have landed. But when Walter van Beirendonck laid eyes on the pictures, all he saw was sweet inspiration. He called his new collection "Electric Eye", after the singer's song "Moonage daydream" : "Keep your electric eye on me, babe". But the Electric Eye has taken on a sinister resonance since David Bowie penned that song 44 years ago. "We're overwhelmed by cameras", WvB mourned. "Not just selfies, but ISIS... we're obliged to see everything dreadful that's going on". The collection he showed was superficially quite happy, hyper-flared, childlike in its almost-fairy-tale print motifs, but black clouds glowered. The opening passage of black suits with infections of naive print were, according to the designer, representative of freedom and freshness overwhelmed by dark forces. Pessimistic ? That was just the beginning. Waletr van Beirendonck is as polarizing as his number one fan, Rei Kawakubo. The print component of this collection was nursery sweetness and innocence... to a point. Stephen Jones, responsible for the huge feathered insectoid hats that closed the show, talked about visiting WvB's house and seeing the shelves of toys, and a sense of charming play did seep into the graphics. The WvB ménagerie -snake, bear, rabbit- was jacquard-ed into a blouson. A little leather jacket featured a befanged, befringed monster in the back. And in this context, even a latex tee looked a little less knowing. That was because the big black cloud generated by the Electric Eye -aided by thunderbolts and lightning- was hovering as an ominous counterpoint. The story Walter van Beirendonck was telling was doom and gloom. Everything he holds dear is being ground to inconsequence. Looking for a way out, a trapped soul might latch on to the mushrooms that were a key visual. Magic ? Not to the designer, but to others, they might be a key to open the doors of perception. As much as he doubts that, Walter seemed blissfully happy to be the gatekeeper.