Let's put it this way : the buyers in Jun Takahashi's showroom seemed more interested in placing personal orders than securing stock for their stores. It has been 25 years since Undercover was born, and 21 since it started presenting collections. To mark this double coming of age, the designer mustered a kind of Greatest hits lineup of old favorites refashioned in new fabrications. He also injected a dose of Star Wars to raise fanboy temperatures to fever pitch. The results were fantastic. This critic's personal order would certainly have featured the shadow-pocket jacket from 1999's Relief collection; the patch-neck topcoat from 2003's Scab; and the 100% yes-please jumble-buttoned and mixed-material spattered nylon coat from 2004's But Beautiful, inspired by the work of Anne-Valérie Dupond. The pièce de résistance, though, was a reversible bomber jacket in the manner of 1999's Ambivalence, whose two poles were the Dark Side and the Other. On one side of it was an X-Wing dogfight, on the other a mightily alighted red lightsaber. For children of the first Star Wars era, this was powerfully resonant. Search your feelings -but not for long, because this collection sells fast. A wonderful retrospective of genius streetwear.