In a detour from the high-concept grit of previous seasons, Robert Geller envisioned a day in paradise -a leisurely German paradise, far removed from the tangle and tussle of eurozone talk. "I have great memories of childhood vacations on the North Sea", the Hamburg native said backstage, flitting between models with slicked-back hair. "I wanted to re-create the mix of the sun and the wind. I don't think it's the same anywhere else. And when it rained, it made this amazing rain-whipped effect". Those flurries he reproduced with a swirling doodle pattern that was printed and, remarkably, embroidered across loose dock shirts, billowy pants, papery bombers, and fantastic duster coats. Herr Geller seemed most taken with a graphic wave pattern, "the look of light reflecting off water", which he described in exacting detail. It made for a not-too-nautical flourish, reappearing on anoraks, modified macs, and board shorts that crinkled in sail-like Tyvek, the so-called "unrippable" fabric used in FedEx envelopes. Large rope-tied bags, done in collaboration with Siwa in Japan, were made of the same curiously durable material. Satin and Japanese linen complemented the texture story, which, combined with inviting colors that alternated between sandy, navy and dusky, made for another moody and wholly unique vision from Robert Geller. At times it felt like a memory of a bygone era, yet one rooted in the now. Lovely collection.