Happiness is to be found when in pursuit of it, in the soothed expectation, on the way, not only upon the arrival. Accepting detours, just going the way, which is anyhow not this obvious to anyone.
Thomas Bettinelli

Happiness is just a hairflip away.
Chris Crocker


"The way the system works now, you see the clothes, within an hour or so they're online, the world sees them. They don't get to a store for six months. The next week, young celebrity girls are wearing them on red carpets. They're in every magazine. The customer is bored with those clothes by the time they get to the store. They're overexposed, you're tired of them, they've lost their freshness".
Tom Ford


Bottega Veneta

"Taking a spiritual rest in nature", was Tomas Maier's intent with Bottega Veneta's collection for this season. And if that sounded like Reese Witherspoon ready to go Wild on the West Coast, then that wasn't such a wrong note for the German designer to strike. The music struck those same chords too, Steve Mackey's soundtrack chiming like a Windham Hill record, the waves and wind adding to a perfect aural backdrop for a hike through the redwoods. Except it wasn't New Age totem Windham Hill, it was actually snatches from Touching the Void and Kundun, and both pieces of music cued something more extreme. Something "wild", in fact. Tomas Maier has always loved clothes that look like they've lived. The knits with their necklines stretched out were a good example here. And with this collection, he also had a ready-made, all-weather, all-terrain scenario. But he came at it from a surprising angle. The silhouettes -parkas and fitted pants with snapped hems and quilted jackets- suited the story and, yes, there were a few of the technical pieces you might expect : some of the pants were fleece, for instance, and trekking boots featured among the footwear (very attractive they were too). The striated quilting effects on plush blousons looked like water or wind running through sand. That was outdoorsy. But Tomas Maier was also fiercely attached to the shiny fluidity of cupro, an unusual fabric to see in a collection which its designer spoke of as a return to an elemental mood. Cupro looks good at night, in a disco. Here, it loaned a languid, jewel-toned, almost-decadent edge, like a last gasp of the world our seeker for inner peace might be trying to leave. As airy-fairy as that idea sounds, it does acknowledge the curious tension that always crouches at the heart of a TM collection. Likewise a teal blue blazer that sat at the end of the show like a gorgeous alien chick in a nest of ticking-stripe quilting and repurposed militarywear. Maybe Tomas Maier was acknowledging his man wants his inner peace without actually relinquishing his good old bad time. Anyhow, the collection he designed for his own namesake label looks much more covetable. A literal footnote : socks and sandals, once voted worst fashion faux pas, reign supreme in Milan as the footwear of choice for SS16. German package tourists is going to be the very height of chic. Bottega Veneta is about to celebrate its 50th anniversary and 15 years under the creative direction of Tomas Maier (who was appointed by Tom Ford).

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