A Danish designer based in London referencing kung fu movies for a label that's finding love at the highest echelons of American hip-hop : Astrid Andersen has gone global in the best possible way. She developed last season's Assassin's Creed-meets-Ghost Dog aesthetic, inspired by a trip to Shanghai and a think about VHS-era martial arts signifiers. Chucked into that mix, said her notes, was a little bit of "Big trouble in Little China" (surely Kurt Russell's masterpiece, the movie is currently subject to disturbing rumors of a Dwayne "The Rock" Johnson remake). This correspondent must confess to being no pro when it comes to traditional Chinese dress, but Astrid Andersen's blossom-brocade mash-ups of changshan with parkas plus baseball, basketball, and hockey shirts seemed why-has-nobody-done-this-before obvious and strong. Supplemental patches of silk brocade on the front of basketball shorts ingeniously communicated ostentatious kung fu master élan. Beneath the martial art top notes -and those hats- ran the core AA codes; urbanized sportswear refreshed by recourse to lush color, decoration, and fabrication : urban sports luxe. A$AP Ferg, in London to launch a collaboration with her, didn't stop filming until the very last model disappeared back down the runway.