This presentation was the kind of thing that really seemed to require some semiotic unpacking. Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne had installed several police lineup boxes in one of the spaces at men's fashion week HQ, and then filled them with a multiethnic mix of models and New York City it folk such as Waris Ahluwalia and Twin Shadow (who also contributed the presentation soundtrack). What was going on here ? Was there some hidden commentary ? The police lineup has come in for some critical scrutiny of late -was that it ? Or... never mind the semiotics. Better to appreciate the fact that, actually, looking at clothes on theatrically sullen models in a faux police lineup is more fun than seeing them strutted down the runway at your average fashion show. It also offered an opportunity for extended contemplation of the Public School attitude, which is central to the brand's allure. Lots of menswear labels can turn out a durable mix of crisp tailoring and athletic-inspired gear; the two Schoolers execute their mash-up of those themes with a particular streetwise panache. One of this season's hero pieces, for instance, an elongated baseball jacket in a navy silk-cotton blend, had something of the nattiness of an overcoat, but the slightly rumpled material it was made from, and the sporty reference, gave it a decidedly unfussy mien. Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne are very good at giving men opportunities to experiment with fabric and proportion without running the risk of looking dandified or embarrassing themselves. To wit, Public School must undoubtedly make the most convincing case out there for the man short. Their version is long and skater-y, a little scofflaw, as a matter of fact. Perhaps that was the meaning, not so hidden, of this presentation : the Public School dudes were all suspects in the crime of looking too damn cool.