"I want to articulate this primal feeling, somewhat reassuring, that beautiful things, often the simplest, are timeless", wrote Pierre Mahéo in a letter to the spectators at his Officine Générale show in Paris, held in the enchanting serenity of a cloister on the Left Bank. "I had this image in mind of Marcello Mastroianni strolling through this neighborhood", he added, as an explanation for the nonchalant slouch that pervaded the refined and assured outing. It was all about double-pleat pants narrowing toward the hem, skimpy blazers, and roomy trenchcoats thrown on top. It was all about lightness, most of all -a mandatory summer trope that this season has sent many designers on an exploration of new tailoring methods. With the volume gathered around the thighs and a charmingly droopy ease, the silhouette had a fresh spontaneity and a certain carelessness to it. It was also very autobiographic, as is everything with this designer. Monsieur Mahéo uses himself as a model, which is part of his success; he understands the needs of real men. This was the first proper show for Officine Générale. Until now Pierre Mahéo has preferred presentations in order for the public to touch and feel fabrications, and to appreciate the fine little details. This season, though, he thought he needed to present the clothes on moving bodies. All in all, it worked well. But one was left wondering if glorified normality, for lack of a better definition of what the Officine Générale understatement stands for, is really worthy of a catwalk show, even such a poetic one as this.