As pure, clear, and pleasingly palate-cleansing as a glass of iced Perrier, this Lemaire collection fused sportswear and workwear into a bubbly, minimalist-casual micro-delight. Perhaps the best things in it were the shirt-jacket hybrids (shackets or jirts) double-zipped bombers you could reasonably wear tucked in or out, and in poplin as light as the breeze. But big love too to the seersucker check half-sleeve jacketed suit, the high-rise loose-leg cotton twill pants, the unwashed heavy-denim three-button blazer, and the double-zipped four-pocket jacket in pale ginger. Other standouts included olive Mao suits, sans-doublure overcoats, and the matchy-matchy print three-piece in cotton. That last look aside, Christophe Lemaire & Sarah-Linh Tran are unafraid to stick their man in top-to-toe block black, olive, or deep blue : it doesn't photograph that well, but it looks confident in its scalpel-outlined monotony. Like team Topman Design in London, the duo looked to Northern soul for their bags, high-waisted and wide. "They're a bit feminine but worn in a sporty and manly way", Christophe Lemaire said. And they were. Here they were effective, not just affectation.