Alexandre Plokhov's show marked the his return to the runway after a hiatus of several seasons. Attendees who have been following his work since he was heading up Cloak, the brooding menswear label where he made his name, would not have been surprised by the cyber-gothic tone of his last collection, or by the fastidious cut of his clothes, or by the regular references to military regalia. What undoubtedly raised a lot of eyebrows, however, was his use of color. Yes, color ! Bright, primary colors, like red and yellow ! Granted, most of the collection erred on the side of his signature neutrals, with lots of looks in white, olive drab, navy, and most of all, black. But the expansion of his palette gave a different charge to the dystopian Alexandre Plokhov atmosphere. Credit the novel "The Mongoliad" for his sudden interest in color : in the book, he explained, clans are marked out by the colors they wear, an idea he translated into monochromatic looks. The fact that the looks were monochromatic made textures come to the fore -his patchwork mesh, for instance, with its disintegrating, wabi-sabi appeal, or the surreal puckered effect of the rib on his woven yellow sweats. Alexandre Plokhov's aesthetic can come off a touch overbearing, so these grace notes of tactility worked a charm. Ditto the unexpectedly feminine elements here, like the long, nearly-sheer jersey tees that cinched at the sides, or the poncho-shaped tops that opened and closed the show, which were so lightweight and airborne they came to seem ethereal as they floated back and forth along the length of the runway. It was nice to see the Russian-born American designer pursuing a dreamy tone, for once, as opposed to putting a lick of polish on a nightmare. On December 17th, 2015, Alexandre Plokhov announced through his Instagram that his label would be shutting down at the end of the year.