It's been in beta for six years, a Donatella Versace ideas lab transiently helmed by both Christopher Kane and Jonathan Anderson, but Versus 2.0 is now in full release. For his first collection post-confirmation as creative director, Anthony Vaccarello showed why Versace decided to grant him permanent stewardship of the sub-brand that Gianni once gave to Donatella. Diffusion lines are tricky beasts. Maybe it's that word diffusion that causes the confusion, implicitly inciting houses to dilute their codes as they loosen their price points to appeal to a wider demographic. Here, while the new designer certainly broadened the offer with plenty of daywear he declined to ramp down the essential Versace-ness of the whole. Assiduously riffing on the original, Donatella-defined, rock-rebel codes of this line has a double advantage in that it defines a territory that doesn't too overtly overlap with Anthony Vaccarello's own collections, and which at the same time keeps instantly shoppable Versus sharply focused. Despite the antagonistic moniker, Versus is shaping up to be a useful complementary satellite of planet Versace. Next orbit will find him at London fashion week with a full show.