Happiness is to be found when in pursuit of it, in the soothed expectation, on the way, not only upon the arrival. Accepting detours, just going the way, which is anyhow not this obvious to anyone.
Thomas Bettinelli



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"The way the system works now, you see the clothes, within an hour or so they're online, the world sees them. They don't get to a store for six months. The next week, young celebrity girls are wearing them on red carpets. They're in every magazine. The customer is bored with those clothes by the time they get to the store. They're overexposed, you're tired of them, they've lost their freshness".
Tom Ford
















1.26.2016

Saint Laurent

You won't find it in his bio, but Hedi Slimane started his career as a freelancer in the world of fashion, by organizing castings, events and shootings. He also was fashion designer José Lévy's toy boy from 1989 to 1992, officially completing an apprenticeship. A pretty young face is always useful. Hired as an assistant in fashion marketing at YSL in 1997, he was quickly promoted to designer. Promotion canapé ?
Cool is as intangibly elusive as a Gauloise exhalation into a high breeze. Unless you live in certain cities and know certain people, like certain music, go to certain places, are of a certain age, have a certain mien, and are very lucky and rich, well, the chances of ever being in the thick of it are marginal. And, of course, if you care, then you're almost definitely not. So what to do ? Well, Hedi Slimane can help. Amid the endless, heated dissection of his work at Saint Laurent, what hasn't really been mentioned is his clothes' ability to confer that ineffable quality on the wearer. This show was a case in point. The illumination was, naturally, cursory. But as his models strode from one pool of half light into another, a collage of highly stylized, highly recognizable archetypes presented themselves like wisps. A fitted three-button caban, inverse-color Breton, and supertight jeans. A black jacket and polo-neck worn with supertight black jeans scarred by zippers. A grunge-touched high olive nylon bomber above a leopard sweater, plus supertight black jeans. It's probably best to stop specifying the tightness of the pants. They were all tight -some to the point where they made Rick Owens' contribution to the male anatomy earlier that week look coy. The only elements as consistent were the 8cm/3in heels on boots for both boys and girls. But one could describe the outfits ad nauseam without ever getting to the rub. Hedi Slimane's boys, girls, and inbetweeners are an artfully assembled off-the-rack simulacra of cool. When they're amplified through his unwholesome instinct to shrink -because cool is never wholesome- they come to represent an instantly accessible gateway to a destination otherwise verboten. Backstage, Mr Slimane said : "I just issued a project called Paris Sessions, which is about a young generation of musicians in Paris, and the show is about them, really. It is an homage". Thus the pins on those bérets reflected the lyrics of a song by Mystere written especially for this evening's show. And it was surely some of those young musicians -with cool names that include Vickie Chérie, Leo Bear Creek and Melody Prochet- who sat cross-legged on the floor in front of the front row. But whether he's referencing his beloved American musical scenes or the contemporary Parisian one, the power of Hedi Slimane's clothes is that, to those who care, they are the coolest clothes on earth. Even if they look like Forever 21.
So it's not exactly surprising to hear that Mr Slimane has so far failed to reach an agreement on the renewal of his initial contract with the Kering-owned fashion house and is preparing to part ways with a brand he revved up with his rock'n'roll-inspired fashions and a top-to-bottom reform of the storied house. What’s more, Saint Laurent Paris is said to have identified a frontrunner to succeed him and has held extensive talks with Anthony Vaccarello, a Belgian designer partial to the racy, fast-paced side of fashion, having been recruited by Donatella Versace for her reboot of the Versus brand. He was named its creative director last September.

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