Happiness is to be found when in pursuit of it, in the soothed expectation, on the way, not only upon the arrival. Accepting detours, just going the way, which is anyhow not this obvious to anyone.
Thomas Bettinelli

Happiness is just a hairflip away.
Chris Crocker


"The way the system works now, you see the clothes, within an hour or so they're online, the world sees them. They don't get to a store for six months. The next week, young celebrity girls are wearing them on red carpets. They're in every magazine. The customer is bored with those clothes by the time they get to the store. They're overexposed, you're tired of them, they've lost their freshness".
Tom Ford



On every seat at the presentation in the vast hall of Galerie de Minéralogie was a 14-page brochure entitled "Brothers of Arcadia" art directed by creative director Nicola Formichetti and shot by Branislav Jankic, starring impossibly buff, often entirely nude men, chiseled as Greek gods and modeled after same, frolicking in the surf, entwining themselves in rope, and flexing in every imaginable position. One of those Arcadian brothers -Travis Cannata- lolled in his seat, waiting for the show to start. If you looked up and down the long aisle, you could see editor after editor looking from the page to the guy and then back. They ain't seen nothing yet. An uncensored short film from the same shoot also premiered on XTube. Nicola Formichetti called it a "moving mood board". In the mood yet ? After the show, he described the full mix of inspirations that fed this second collection designed by Romain Kremer : the fabulists of Italian cinema, Fellini and Pasolini; Japanese comics; the heroic aesthetics of Herb Ritts and Bruce Weber; and Greek mythology. "This season, I put more of myself into it", he said. That's a lot of oneself to cram into any collection. Accordingly, Grecian gods, muscle-bound frat boys, tattooed punks, and sylph-ish male models all took their turn down the catwalk, often spattered in glitter. The first boy out sported a pair of giant bronze 'Iron Man' arms. Despite all the trappings, though, the collection largely boils down to salable items : stonewashed skinny jeans, pleated shorts, tee-shirts, swimwear. Nicola Formichetti spoke of doing something "a little more real", but the danger is, without the theatrics, they may also look a little more ho-hum. The strongest bits here coupled wearability with oddity, like the bifurcated tailored jackets that opened the show. Sliced open at the waist, their top and bottom halves held together by a strip of transparent latex shot through with a rip-cord drawstring, they married old and new. So did the green glow that surrounded the show -from the lighting to the collection's palette- an acidic minty shade. "That green represented the blood of the digital era", Mr Formichetti said. "If this technology has a kind of color, for me it was a neon green". Arcadia, electrified. It was taken directly from the Thierry Mugler archive. Also reminiscent of Romain Kremer's own previous collections.

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