Happiness is to be found when in pursuit of it, in the soothed expectation, on the way, not only upon the arrival. Accepting detours, just going the way, which is anyhow not this obvious to anyone.
Thomas Bettinelli

Happiness is just a hairflip away.
Chris Crocker


"The way the system works now, you see the clothes, within an hour or so they're online, the world sees them. They don't get to a store for six months. The next week, young celebrity girls are wearing them on red carpets. They're in every magazine. The customer is bored with those clothes by the time they get to the store. They're overexposed, you're tired of them, they've lost their freshness".
Tom Ford


Homme fatal

Make this hi res pic your new wallpaper !

Fall '09 / Winter '10

Tadzio am Strand

L'Officiel Hommes #17 (part 1)

The latest issue of French fash mag L'Officiel Hommes is out ! The cover features a portrait of Pete Doherty made with ink on canvas by young French artist Alizée Meurice and shot by Milan Vukmirovic at Pete Doherty's house.
"Volcanic" is the title of the first editorial I've chosen to show you. French model Roman Ivancic was beautifully shot in the Canary hotspot by Milan Vukmirovic.

This season's new trends

Three key menswear trends for Fall '09 /Winter '10, all include color palettes. Gangs of New York leads with references to 19th century crime bosses and gangsters. Road Warriors offers a hard and aggressive combatant aesthetics. Scrappy Revolutionaries, with its basis in making good in hard times, balances out the trend report.

Gangs of New York was sparked by Alexander McQueen and followed by many designers like Zegna. The look draws reference to the 19th century with characters from Bill the Butcher to crime bosses and gangsters that would be found in an impoverished Five Points battle in lower Manhattan. Some Victorian references are apparent in tailoring such as the 3-piece suit and select outerwear styles, though skinny pants balanced out many looks. Sepia tones fill the color palette with antiqued neutrals set against black, brown and gray. Leather is relevant on items like the trench coat and accessories.

Road Warrior makes a very strong post-apocalyptic statement for this season. Leading purveyors of the look include Kris Van Assche and Gareth Pugh. A slick, hard and aggressive combatant aesthetics is realized through black attire and various grays with lots of leather for skinny pants and biker jackets. Metal embellishment exudes a rough look along with shredded jeans. Layers are composed of black on black or dark gray, which creates texture interest with hard leathers versus soft jerseys.

Scrappy Revolutionaries is yet another thematic reaction to today's challenging economic times. The message is something of making good in hard times and so there are some Post-WW2 references mixed with a touch of Victorian styling that becomes apparent in items like cut-away jackets. Workwear is another key reference point shown with items like conductor pants with suspenders, work shirts and union suits. The color palette focuses on dirty chambray and yellow-cast khaki. Weathered and stained fabrics and chunky knits are worked in and bowler hats top off the look.


There has been such hand-wringing in fashion this season : the world is crashing down all around us -what now ? If anyone has the wherewithal to take the long view, it ought to be a brand like Dunhill. After all, this is a house that kept its doors open during the WW2 bombing of London, when Alfred Dunhill's only option was to set up a desk in front of the rubble of his store. The recent hiring of Kim Jones as creative director shows that the label is unafraid to look ahead, though, and for his part, the 28yo designer found inspiration in the house's copious back catalog. "Heeeere's Dunhill !" an exuberant Jones exclaimed backstage, when asked about the message of his collection, which included a duffel coat with mammoth-tooth toggles, waterproof macs with a London map lining, and knits with clean Deco-like color blocking. They were well-aged ideas made newly relevant.
Elsewhere there were maybe too many of those ideas crammed into every look (tie clips attached to shirt collars ?), but a limited color palette of white, blue, and gray (plus a bit of camel) kept things from getting overwhelming. And it helped one focus on the unorthodox (and meticulous) cut and construction of the garments, which was all Kim : the banded waist on a shirt essentially turned it into a short-sleeve Harrington, while a double-breasted blazer had a covered placket. And don't forget those Dunhill leather goods : briefcases and portfolios with strong zippers and rounded corners that seemed to say, "Why so serious ?"...



Last January, your fave fash web-log ignited its first awards...

Today, Morphosis presents the second

Best Model :
Sean O'Pry
(for the second time)