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Chris Crocker

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"The way the system works now, you see the clothes, within an hour or so they're online, the world sees them. They don't get to a store for six months. The next week, young celebrity girls are wearing them on red carpets. They're in every magazine. The customer is bored with those clothes by the time they get to the store. They're overexposed, you're tired of them, they've lost their freshness".
Tom Ford
















11.29.2007

Gucci (part 1)

The nonwinter that European ski resorts were enduring last year is one more reason to reflect upon the implications of global warming, and Frida Giannini was not the only designer to wonder this season if the lifestyle she was celebrating in her new collection might be a thing of the past. If this is indeed the endgame for winter wonderlands, Giannini is at least determined they’ll fade out in style. Against a stone-paved and crested backdrop that subtly evoked one of King Ludwig’s lodges, she offered up a charming, funny, and luxe-lite salute to the Alps winter ritual. If an extravagant fur coat thrown over a chunky, white rollneck and plaid pants raised the specter of Günther Sachs in full playboy cry, Giannini was equally capable of channeling the romantic young swains that preoccupy artist Elizabeth Peyton. Hence her original take on eveningwear, which hybridized a ski suit and a tux. (Just when we were thinking skinny was so passé bourgeois, we’re face to face with the apotheosis of lean !)
But it was exactly that sense of young bucks at play that trimmed the fat out of such Tyrolean specials as a forest-green suede jacket (lamb-lined, leather-piped) or stolidly upper-class winter wool plaid suits. One always felt that Giannini was having fun, especially when she tacked on the crests and feather cockades, or sent her boys out in mukluks and black leather pants. When a burgundy astrakhan smoking jacket appeared on the catwalk to a blast of Bond music, it was more Moore than Connery (never mind Craig). Giannini called it “Snow Glam” and it’s a major part of her achievement at Gucci that there is no room for irony in her chalet.


















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8 comments:

Lestat said...

Prémire photo est clun d'ille à Madame Schmoll dé la Rie des Rosiers: avez-vous réconnu la fourrire dé rénarde ?.

Anonymous said...

La veuve Schmoll, elle dit elle aime la rénarde et lé visone. Lé clin d'oeil au zamis dé la Rie des Rosiers ! Mazeltov !

Fox Hunter said...

Clearly my F/W favorite designer... Gorgeous collection!

Anonymous said...

Shalom ! Da zylvair fawx is goot, yah. Me too likes animal four. Ispishally vhen vorn by da sheyne boychik hunter.
Az mir vill schlugen a hunt, gifintmin a schtecken !

Lestat said...

Merci aux Schmoll de New York pour leur contribution à ce blog. Hélas, on ne comprend pas le Yiddish de la dernière phrase !
On espère quand même une ligne de la jeune Madame Schmoll, soeur du braconnier qui aime cette collection Gucci.

Madémoisélle Schmoll said...

Ahhh ça est une grande bonhire dé la voir enfin sir cé blog la famuse rénarde argintée.
Il faut dire qué la rénarde arginté elle est sipérieure à toutes les autres fourrires : lé visone, les ponthires, lé rats musqués, les chinchillas.
La prochaine apparition dé la rénarde elle est announcée pour lé 14 décembre à l'opéra ;)

Queen Schmoll said...

Ca l'est étonnant, jé la regardais la télévisonne, et j'ai vu la quandidate à le roue dé la tune qu'elle prononçait lé rat muslu... Comment elle sé prononce la fourire en fronce?
Du coup jé la porterai la rénarde, je suis certine de bien la prononcer.
La preuve:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZRwVtrVUrAs

Lestat said...

Merci à Mademoiselle Schmoll et Alexi Meade-Schmoll pour leur contribution exceptionnelle à Morphosis !
Bon spectacle à l'opéra et saluez les petits rats non musqués de Casse-Noisette !
Bonne chance aussi pour la cohue haussmannienne !