MORPHOSIS

Snapper : Nicolas Guérin

2012-01-31T00:05:00.000-08:00

Julien Quevenne by Nicolas Guérin
for Fiasco #6

Nicolas Guérin is a photographer living near Paris, France who loves cinema and enjoys taking pictures. He owns a studio in Montreuil. His favorite subjects are the old geniuses from the film industry with nice white beards, usually met in Cannes or Berlin. Sometimes he prefers to stay in his studio and shoot nude polaroids of young girls just for fun. He shares his time between portraiture, fashion and commercials, including cover stories for Esquire, GQ, Time, L'Uomo Vogue or Fiasco...

BLOOD CONCEPT fragrances

2012-01-31T00:04:00.000-08:00

Filled with legends and meanings, blood is soaked with mystery‚ fascination and respect. It’s the most tested and studied part of the human body and it guards a multitude of secrets that reveals our inner and unique way of being. We've all heard of those wackadoodle diets customized to your blood type. Now comes Blood Concept, a new line of perfumes from Milan, Italy that wants to be very clear what their scents are not made from : flowers.
Blood Concept is a private celebration of the vivid and fascinating liquid that flows in our veins. Because blood is actually the river of life. A, B, AB and 0, retrace the evolution of manhood through time and its record of information, history and mutation, so well kept in the vital flushing of blood.
Blood Concept is a mystic ritual with no flowers to be found : deep as primeval Africa in 0‚ aromatic as the scent of familiar land in A, bold as unpredictable itineraries in B, bold and sharp as a metropolitan skyline in AB. Ending each time with the same subtle and mysterious note : a metallic vague suspicion.
Not sure what type you are ? Sample them all with their Compatability Test. You won't even have to look at a needle. It’s not just vampires who enjoy the smell of blood.

Hercules #11 (part 5)

2012-01-31T00:03:00.000-08:00

"Between appointments" is the title of this edit by Miguel Arnau featuring Simone Bredariol, Federico Cola, Samuele Visentin, Elia Cometti, Elbio Bonsaglia, Sergio Cazzaniga and Andrea Preti groomed by Davide Diodovich & Laura Stucchi and shot by Giampaolo Sgura for the current issue of Spanish fash mag Hercules Universal.

Prada

2012-01-31T00:02:00.000-08:00

Miuccia Prada is nothing if not full of surprises, and Frederic Sanchez's pedal-to-the-metal soundtrack for her show was only one among many of the question marks that hovered over her offering for this season. Bearing in mind that one must always be aware of the context she creates for each new collection, the audience was offered Brandy Alexanders, Manhattans, and Blue Lagoons -cocktails from another time and place. The canapés were luridly colored squares of sandwich anchored with cocktail olives, and the set was a two-storied house with linoleum on the floor. So far, so kitsch. And that was before we saw the brown suede jacket with the maroon diamond pattern, or the mock turtleneck in emerald green Lurex -the kind of items a flashy traveling salesman might have donned in the sixties or the seventies to cruise the casino in whatever one-horse burg he'd washed up in for the night (after he'd been driving all day with the Priest on his eight-track). Some of the models carried a big square bag that could well have been that salesman's sample case. Mercifully, you can't pin a Prada collection down to one scenario. Mr Salesman is nobody's dream. But here, there was also a bizarre subtext -britches, stockings, pudding-bowl haircuts- that suggested puritans, until the knee-highs turned Lurex-sparkly. It certainly wouldn't be the first time that Prada has deliberately flirted with the out-of-time peculiar. Getting back to suede for a moment, Miuccia Prada has always insisted it's one of her least favorite things, yet it was all over this collection. In fact, she was even sporting a black suede jacket. But that intangible oddness may actually be the essence of Prada. She could have been quoting from herself with Art Déco prints (more mock turtles) that looked like sixties upholstery. And the ultra-boxy super-large 3-button jackets that determined the collection's silhouette took the deconstruction the label has been flirting with in its menswear to a logical but alienating extreme. A blast of Motörhead's "Ace of spades" took us back to that salesman-in-the-casino analogy. The cards remind us that life's a gamble. And Miuccia Prada surely knows that not every bet pays off. Über-large outerwear, seriously ? Peccato.

Bottega Veneta

2012-01-31T00:01:00.000-08:00

Homme fatal : Benjamin Godfre

2012-01-30T00:15:00.000-08:00

Κώστας Μαρτάκης - " Ένταση" Kostas Martakis - "Intensity"

2012-01-30T00:04:00.000-08:00

Konstantinos Martakis is a Greek singer, who rose to fame after appearing on Greece's 'Dream Show' aired in 2006. Following his participation, he went on to release three studio albums and also participated in the Greek national finale for the Eurovision Song Contest in 2008. Last year, he took part in the second season of Greece's 'Dancing with the Stars', placing second.
Kostas Martakis released his third studio album last month in Greece and Cyprus. He's just dropped the eponymous fifth single, "Entasi " ('Intensity'), written by Dimitris Kontopoulos, with a highly fashionable video directed by Apollonas Papatheoharis, featuring top model Vicky Kayia and TV host Mairy Synatsaki. Kostas Martakis will be the guest host of 'MadWalk 2012' on February 8 at the Tae Kwon Do stadium in Phaliron and "Ένταση" will be performed live at the begging of this fashion music project.
View more of him from here on Morphosis.
Μεγάλη τραγούδι, μεγάλη βίντεο, για άλλη μια φορά, ο Κώστας Μαρτάκης έκανε το σωστό !

Hercules #11 (part 4)

2012-01-30T00:03:00.000-08:00

"Old new world" is the title of this cover story by Francesco Sourigues & David Vivirido featuring Garrett Neff and Robin Ahrens shot in Istanbul for the newly revamped issue of Spanish fash mag Hercules -now 'Universal' (vol 2.1).
Istanbul is the only city in the world to span two continents -Europe and asia. The capital of several empires, it has not been the political capital of its own country since 1923, yet it remains the cultural, intellectual, and economic heart of Turkey.
The city has seen successive reincarnations -New Rome, Byzantium, Constantinople, Stanboul- and is undergoing yet another change as the Old City slowly dies.
Istanbul is truly one of the wolrd's most vibrant, industrious, and fascinating metroploses. From street to street, you can step from one century into the next, and never cease to feel its frenetic, urban heartbeat.
Louis Vuitton's IstanbulCity Guide

Gucci

2012-01-30T00:02:00.000-08:00

Frida Giannini's men's show for this season marked Gucci's 90th anniversary. The cornerstone of the collection was a lean 2-button suit, which trousers flared slightly over the shoe. With Faces-era Rod Stewart croaking over the sound system, the connection with a vintage Gucci moment was inescapable. But la signora Giannini has found her strength in that connection. Streamlined luxe for the Ur-jet set was Gucci's original calling card, and the designer laid on a master class in subtle opulence, from the opening trench in ostrich through the double-breasted croc blazer to an astrakhan sweater for evening. Funny thing though -as excessive as that ménagerie may sound, it played as quite easy, even restrained, due to the muted colors and casual attitude. Time has taught Frida Giannini how to bring a light touch to the legacy, how to integrate her own experience (the snappy dressers of her girlhood rock dreams) with the demands of a long-established house like Gucci. And when one model strode down the catwalk in a shaggy swath of Mongolian lamb, the two worlds collided beautifully.

Versace

2012-01-30T00:01:00.000-08:00

Sunday boy du jour : Jack

2012-01-29T00:16:00.000-08:00

Ports 1961

2012-01-29T00:15:00.000-08:00

Wooyoungmi

2012-01-29T00:14:00.000-08:00

Nicole Fahri

2012-01-29T00:13:00.000-08:00

Bespoken

2012-01-29T00:12:00.000-08:00

Camilla Bruerberg

2012-01-29T00:11:00.000-08:00

Paul Costelloe

2012-01-29T00:10:00.000-08:00

Philipp Plein

2012-01-29T00:09:00.000-08:00

Marc Jacobs

2012-01-29T00:08:00.000-08:00

Marc by Marc Jacobs

2012-01-29T00:07:00.000-08:00

Michael Kors

2012-01-29T00:06:00.000-08:00

Yohji Yamamoto

2012-01-29T00:05:00.000-08:00

Y-3

2012-01-29T00:04:00.000-08:00

Maison Martin Margiela

2012-01-29T00:03:00.000-08:00

Rad by Rad Hourani

2012-01-29T00:02:00.000-08:00

Walter van Beirendonck

2012-01-29T00:01:00.000-08:00

Model : Márcio França

2012-01-28T09:00:00.000-08:00

Hailing from São Paulo, the largest city in Brazil and in the Southern hemisphere, Márcio França, 20, was scouted at school. Like all the best Brazilian male models, he certainly knows how to showcase a well fitting pair of Speedos. Especially in front of photographer Didio's lens. Easy-going and sports-loving, this stunner is ready to work and has the ultimate quality of being equally edgy and editorial.

MORPHOSIS

2012-01-27T00:10:00.000-08:00

Jarrid Bernier by Alfredo Albanesi
for Fiasco #18

Michael Hudson

2012-01-27T00:09:00.000-08:00

Hailing from Woodward, Pennsylvania, long-haired model Michael Hudson, 19, is also an ice hockey player. Although pursuing studies in anatonmy, he appeared in a number of magazines like i-D, Chaos or Electric Youth, ad campaigns for Ralph Lauren or Frankie Morello and posed for Richard Pier Petit, Matthias Vriens and Mariano Vivanco. He currently resides in Studio City, an affluent residential neighborhood within the City of Los Angeles, California in the San Fernando Valley.

Man bun

2012-01-27T00:08:00.000-08:00

Christopher Schenk by Anselm Woesler
for Kinki #39

On a recent night at Hotel Delmano, a stylish speakeasy in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, the heavily tattooed head bartender, Sam Anderson, and his colleague, Michaelangelo Davis III, were shaking up cocktails with manly vigor. Each had his hair done up in a bun. In certain arty neighborhoods like Williamsburg and Bushwick, some men are twisting their long hair into a form more famously worn by librarians, schoolmarms and Katharine Hepburn. But don’t call the male version an up-do or a chignon. Call it a man bun.
The line between utilitarian convenience and fashion statement can be hard to draw with the man bun. On the tennis court, players like Alexandr Dolgopolov and Xavier Malisse have been known to wear them. Certainly, there and in the food and beverage industry, keeping hair away from the face is important. And at Hotel Delmano, Mr Davis, 26, sometimes uses his abundant bun as a pen holder. But he and Mr Anderson could not hold up their heads wearing hairnets. As for ponytails, to Sam Anderson, 30, they evoke "Steven Seagal, hippie uncles and the like", and would not be a good fit in this neighborhood. A hat is an option, but a bun is less sweaty. The man bun is similar in form to the topknot worn by many women -which is going through its own fashion resurgence- but it is often worn slightly lower on the head.

Will Lewis by David Goldman
for Twist #6

Once you’ve committed to a man bun, how do you create one ? Alexander Kellum, 31, a fine-arts painter and yoga teacher who lives in Williamsburg, bends forward and pulls his long chestnut hair in front of him; then he performs a twisting and wrapping motion until his hair is firmly tucked into a knot at the back of his head. Sometimes he’ll let a little hair poke out for an 'abstract expressionist' flourish, he said. A rubber band, a hair band or even a piece of string holds his bun in place. Mr Anderson and Mr Davis use plain rubber bands to anchor theirs. "I bought one of those scrunchy things, but it just didn’t work", said Sam Anderson, who also plays bass guitar for a gothic rock band called River Wild.
Chris Jones, a contestant of this season's "Top Chef" cooking show, uses elastic hair bands swiped from his wife to tie up his bun. The first time she noticed one missing, he said, he told her the cat must have taken it. Mr Jones, who lives in Chicago, is fully aware that some people consider his floppy bun to be ridiculous, but said : "I’m very secure in myself. I’ve actually worn my hair in pigtails once or twice".

Berthold Rothas by Nicolas Guérin
for Fiasco #18

You could theorize that a man who wears a bun is in touch with his feminine side, but the form also has a masculine tradition. Sikh men have long tied their hair in a bun, covered by a turban. And centuries ago, the samurai wore a topknot. Mr Jones, 31, draws inspiration from that association. "Who doesn’t love the samurai ?" he said. "They’re committed to their ways and devoted to their passions". Chris Jones is committed to growing his hair long so he can donate it to Locks of Love, which provides hairpieces to disadvantaged children with hair loss. In a few months, his (only very occasional) hairstylist, Andreas Hogue, will give him a marine cut, to harvest the most hair possible. Then he will start over until, once again, his hair is long enough for a man bun. German model Berthold Rothas (above) already had his cut some days ago.

George Watson by Mark Cant
for Supplementaire #4

As of recently, the man bun trend isn't the only traditionally lady-like statement guys are making. More men are treating themselves to manicures and pedicures, and with a men's nail polish line on the market, the popularity of male primping seems to be on the rise. Let alone the fashion rage of skinny jeans. However, the man bun is also a masculine hairdo, with an emphasis on the "do". Many celebs sport it.

George Watson by Mark Cant
for Supplementaire #4

Source : Phyllis Korkki for The New York Times

Fiasco #18 (part 8)

2012-01-27T00:07:00.000-08:00

"Love & bruises" is the title of this cover story by Katharine Polk featuring Berthold Rothas and Bradley Soileau groomed by Damian Monzillo, Joseph DiMaggio & Annelise Tieck and shot in Brooklyn by Nicolas Guérin for the current issue of brit fash mag Fiasco.

Fiasco #18 (part 9) Luis Borges (part 6)

2012-01-27T00:06:00.000-08:00

"The strange" is the title of this editorial by Philippe Uter featuring Luis Borges groomed by Robin Navarro & Jacques Uzzardi and shot by Anthony Meyer for the current issue of Brit fash mag Fiasco.

Fiasco #18 (part 10) Viggo Jonason (part 10)

2012-01-27T00:05:00.000-08:00

"Interview with a vampire" is the title of this editorial by Giulia Marsili featuring Viggo Jonason groomed by Iván Gómez and shot in Barcelona by Basil Faucher for the current issue of Brit fash mag Fiasco.
Bonus : outtakes included

Highsnobiety #4 Rick Genest (part 17)

2012-01-27T00:04:00.000-08:00

"Rico the Zombie Boy" is the title of this cover story featuring Canadian inked superstar Rick Genest in Acronym's SS12 collection shot by Yves Borgwardt for the current issue of Berliner fash mag Highsnobiety.

DERZEIT #Vol6.2

2012-01-27T00:03:00.000-08:00

"Paragon lost" is the title of this cover story by Manuel Schibli featuring Izaio's newbie John groomed by Phlipp Koch, styled by Sebastiano Raqusa, shot by Thuy Pham and filmed by Anna-Lena Haas for Berliner fash mag DERZEIT.
Bonus : the video

Comme des Garçons

2012-01-27T00:02:00.000-08:00

"Decadence" was the appropriate word. Imagine the last fashion show on the final night of Western civilization. Rei Kawakubo showed a collection that literally piled reference on reference like a mad last gasp, starting with the little poodle-y wig plopped on top of each model's head. She made some pretty incongruous connections : between denim and dense jacquard, between a U2 tee and a Lurex-threaded cutaway jacket, between tuxedos and pajamas, and on a bigger stage, between diametrically opposed cultures like Japan and China. That was the brocade-and-complex-pant subtext. And yet the shabby, silken languor of the clothes also put you in mind of palazzo-panted cocktails on the terrace of comedienne Lucille Ball's home in Beverly Hills on a lazy Sunday afternoon. In other words, the collection embraced a multitude of alternate realities. That has always been Rei Kawakubo's ineffable imprimatur. Here, she mushed the propriety of Edwardian England together with the sparkly tack of Vegas-as-mammon, then mixed in a handful of disciplinary mid-calf felted military coats. It made for a typically obtuse vision of cultural apocalypse. But there's an irresistible conviction to her vision. Very bobo chic.

Tommy Hilfiger

2012-01-27T00:01:00.000-08:00

Cowboy du jour : Spencer Richards by Simon Le

2012-01-26T00:10:00.000-08:00

Codie Robinson by Mitch Zachary

2012-01-26T00:09:00.000-08:00

Jesper Nohrstedt - "Take our hearts"

2012-01-26T00:08:00.000-08:00

Hailing from Taastrup, Swedish Danish teenager Jesper Nohrstedt Boesgaard, only 17, started his career back in 2010 at the Danish X Factor where he came third. He took part last Saturday in Denmark's Melodi Grand Prix 2012 for the upcoming Eurovision Song Contest in Baku, Azerbaijan, but he didn't win either. Here is his début single entitled "Take our heart", written by Morten Hampenberg, Engelina Larsen and Mads BB Krog. It's a hybrid ballad/dance track. The verses are piano driven and sparse and the chorus has a huge, anthemic electro feel to it

Fiasco #18 (part 4) Felix Badman (part 5)

2012-01-26T00:07:00.000-08:00

"Mr Bully" is the title of this editorial by Carlos Davis featuring Felix Badman groomed by Sheenon Olson and shot by Mark Drew for the current issue of Brit fash mag Fiasco.

Fiasco #18 (part 5) Jarrid Bernier (part 2)

2012-01-26T00:06:00.000-08:00

""A star is born" is the title of this editorial by Alfredo Albanesi featuring Jarrid Bernier groomed by Brian Haugen and shot at the Roosevelt Hotel in West Hollywood by Alfredo Albanesi for the current issue of brit fash mag Fiasco.

Fiasco #18 (part 6)

2012-01-26T00:05:00.000-08:00

"The subject of desire" is the title of this editorial by Dwayne Kennedy featuring Taylor Gannon (with Morgan Booth) groomed by Taca Ozawa and shot by Greg Swales for the current issue of Brit fash mag Fiasco.
Bonus : outtakes in the expandable

Fiasco #18 (part 7) Pawel Bednarek (part 4)

2012-01-26T00:04:00.000-08:00

"Weird silence" is the title of this editorial by Patrick Rinkel featuring Pawel Bednarek groomed by Gregor Makris and shot by Ben Lamberty for the current issue of Brit fash mag Fiasco.

Flaunt #119

2012-01-26T00:03:00.000-08:00

"Entrophy parade" is the title of this edit by Long Nguyen & ZaQuan Champ featuring Tyheem Christopher, Brian Hardy, Carter Harrington and Brendan Washington shot by Slava Mogutin with artwork by Brian Kenny for the 13th anniversary of American magazine Flaunt.
Bonus: outtakes + video included

Ermenegildo Zegna

2012-01-26T00:02:00.000-08:00

For this season's collection, Italian label Ermenegildo Zegna inaugurated its second century looking East, to China, the market that is likely to dominate the company's future. And, in concert with such a prospect, the presentation was a high-tech green-screen extravaganza, orchestrated by James Lima, a visual consultant on 'Avatar'. "In the mood for China", read the on-screen pre-show title. But the soundtrack was the saturated melancholy of Wong Kar-wai's 'In the mood for Love', and it was the romance of the past that dominated the collection, unlike sister line Z Zegna, which was rather film noir and 'Gattaca'. Like Marco Polo, the first Italian to make it to Asia seven centuries ago, the new Zegna man was a traveler in search of the exotic. The visual cue for the collection was a centuries-old scroll that depicts life in China during the period when Marco Polo arrived. Its ornate, gilded design was duplicated on shirts, scarves, lapels, jacket linings, the runway, and even the jacquard that covered the cushions in the show space. And the Zegna clothes were a complement in the sense that they evoked the wardrobe of the kind of explorer who might devote his life to the discovery of such a scroll. It wasn't only the obvious Indiana Jones things, like the belted jackets or the footwear or the leather pouches or the rugged outerwear. It was also the feeling of casual connoisseurship that underpinned the luscious tweeds, checks, and leathers. An evening finale integrated East and West, with Chinese red and gold accenting tuxedos. Again, the mood was romantic, more Shanghai in the 1930s than the 2010s. But surely that's the spirit fashion should bring to the juggernaut collision of Occident and Orient.

Z Zegna

2012-01-26T00:01:00.000-08:00

Weekly celeb : Josh Hutcherson

2012-01-25T00:11:00.000-08:00

Shaun St Laurent by Matthew Lyn

2012-01-25T00:10:00.000-08:00

Spector - "Chevy Thunder"

2012-01-25T00:09:00.000-08:00

Frederick Macpherson, Christopher Burman, Thomas Shickle, Danny Blandy and Jed Cullen, the dapper boys of London band Spector, dropped an awesome video for their new hit "Chevy Thunder" filmed on location in SoCal and Mexico with the talented Focus Creeps. Enjoy !
Spector will be touring the UK from February onwards.

Tart candy

2012-01-25T00:08:00.000-08:00

"Under color" is the title of this pictorial by Alex Badia featuring Janos Molnar and Elia Cometti shot by Rodolfo Martinez for Men's Week.

Prada's 24h Museum in Paris

2012-01-25T00:07:00.000-08:00

Prada presents the "24h Museum", designed by Francesco Vezzoli with AMO, Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas' think tank. The "24h Museum" opens in Paris on Tuesday 24 January at night for 24 hours only, till Wednesday 25 January evening, in the historic Palais d'Iéna, the building designed by Auguste Perret between 1936 and 1946, today home of CESE (Conseil Economique, Social et Environnemental), the French 'third Chamber'. View the live streaming from here.
AMO's installation for the "24h Museum" is divided in three sections, each inspired by a particular type of museum space: historic, contemporary and forgotten. The three sections are instrument to the sequence of events that take place during 24 hours in different areas of the ground floor of the Palais d'Iéna. The central space is a large metal cage made from grills and neon lights that encloses the work by Francesco Vezzoli.
In the three sections –historic, contemporary and forgotten– Vezzoli is creating a "non-existent museum" where he shows his personal tribute to the eternal allure of femininity through interpretations of classical sculptures that make reference to contemporary divas. "They are my icons turned into sculptures and placed on marble pedestals". At the top of the stairway, epicentre of the building, Vezzoli is placing a majestic sculpture of a female, reinterpreted with the features of a mysterious goddess. Vezzoli's vision is of a museum that exists for just 24 hours and which is also a celebration of a collective rite that mixes visitors, red-carpet, Oedipus' complex and night visions.
With the new "24h Museum", Francesco Vezzoli is continuing his exploration of reciprocal influences and boundary-breaking in the visual arts, cinema and theatre that he has already investigated in the performance in which Veruschka did petit-point embroidery at the Venice Biennale in 2001, the Democrazy video in which Sharon Stone and Bernard-Henri Lévy represent themselves as characters of a fictitious political campaign for an hypothetical presidential election (Venice Biennale, 2007), and in Lady Gaga's performance at the MOCA in Los Angeles in 2009 when she played a live tribute to Diaghilev.
In its tradition of working with artists and making multiple approaches to the creative process –with a unique capacity to embrace utopias like The Double Club (London, 2008–09) and the Prada Transformer (Seoul, 2009)– Prada realizes with Francesco Vezzoli a new project of visual and linguistic experimentation in the "24h Museum", a Baroque festival in which the entire exhibition lasts only 24 hours.
The "24h Museum" opens on Tuesday 24 January with an invitation-only dinner. At 11.00 pm it is turned into a disco-club visible online at the site www.24hoursmuseum.com. Today, it is open to the public from 7am to 12 and from 2pm to 4:30pm. Some guided tours for schools take place in the afternoon, followed by a closing vernissage from 6:30pm to 8:30pm. When the 24-hour period ends at 8:30pm CET this evening, the "24h Museum" created by Francesco Vezzoli and AMO closes.

Lladró Atelier

2012-01-25T00:06:00.000-08:00

The Spanish artistic porcelain brand LLadró débuted a captivating new character named The Guest. The project is an invitation to cutting-edge artists from around the world to lend a distinctive personality to a singular porcelain being. The Guest was originally created by Jaime Hayon for the prestigious Lladró Atelier in Valéncia. There are three guests invited to participate in the initial launch of this project. Each guest was invited to design two figures, the large one ($2,800) in a limited edition of 250 units and the small one ($775) in a numbered series. The result is six spectacular creations reflecting the personal universe of each collaborating artist : Spanish designer Jaime Hayon, American artist Tim Biskup and Japanese studio Devilrobots.

2beMAG #18

2012-01-25T00:05:00.000-08:00

"Straight to hell" is the title of this editorial by Mélanie Brisson featuring Pierre-Olivier Baudoin groomed by Evangelista Pablakos and shot by Sébastien Roy for the current issue of Catalan fash mag 2beMAG.

Fiasco #18 (part 3)

2012-01-25T00:04:00.000-08:00

a common life" is the title of this edit by David Roberts featuring Luke Worrall, Caspar Smyth and Sascha Bailey groomed by Jun Sato & Michael Jones and shot by Saty + Pratha for the current issue of Brit fash mag Fiasco.

Fault #9 (part 2)

2012-01-25T00:03:00.000-08:00

"Brave new world" is the title of this edit by Polar Buranasatit featuring Louis Mayhew, Jordan Torres, David Burgos, Alex Ciappara, Billy Morgan and Louis Galloway groomed by Paola & Carl Riedel and shot by Alex Alvarez & Joseph Bleu for the current issue of American magazine Fault.
Bonus : the video to be watched from here on Morphosis.

Paul Smith

2012-01-25T00:02:00.000-08:00

For this season's collection, Paul Smith found inspiration in Frank Zappa's daughter Moon Unit (read this). Like, okay, I mean, like... Valley girl, seriously ? Toooh-tally tubular ! A huge image of a full moon was the backdrop for the catwalk. Sir Paul Smith had been reflecting on the appealingly random qualities of her father music when it occurred to him what a splendidly visual thing a full moon was, which is a random thought in itself. And thus the new Paul Smith collection came into being, donned by an appropriately random model casting. If the designer's collections tend to reflect way stations in his own autobiography, you could maybe pin this one down to the post-hippie, pre-glam moment when the sixties met the seventies. It was the era of 'Space Oddity', so Paul Smith opened with a silvery quilted parka, ersatz astronautica. He also glazed the leather of a blouson with a spacey sheen. But the suggestion of spaciness soon gave way to a 'Withnail and I' baggy cardie vibe, with what felt like haphazard layers of jackets, shirts, and knitwear. "Vintage mixed with luxury" was Smith's own label for the look. It embraced the kind of shaggy furs that festivalgoers might have worn at the earliest Glastonbury gatherings, baggy demob pants, speckled thrift-shop tweeds, and oversize granddad coats. But there were also pieces that felt much more contemporary, like a black mohair cardigan jacket, or a quilted parka with a bold monochrome animal print.