Happiness is to be found when in pursuit of it, in the soothed expectation, on the way, not only upon the arrival. Accepting detours, just going the way, which is anyhow not this obvious to anyone.
Thomas Bettinelli

Happiness is just a hairflip away.
Chris Crocker


"The way the system works now, you see the clothes, within an hour or so they're online, the world sees them. They don't get to a store for six months. The next week, young celebrity girls are wearing them on red carpets. They're in every magazine. The customer is bored with those clothes by the time they get to the store. They're overexposed, you're tired of them, they've lost their freshness".
Tom Ford



When a collection's point of departure is flight -and encompasses all its animal, technological, idiomatic, or even geopolitical meanings- it’s no stretch to think of lifting off and how that translates to the growth curve of a brand. Those following OAMC since 2013 can confirm that material development and authentic design have always been the engines of Luke Meier's process. But for the first time, a presentation helped to situate the label as a look, not just an offering of well-engineered separates. And it's to Meier's credit that the no-nonsense volumes, military-style trousers, and intarsia color-blocked knits sported by fourteen models (including two girls) commanded more attention than the parachute installation, its domed shape puffed skyward by a giant fan. To be sure, Luke Meier's interpretations of flight spanned various domains, from the hand-painted dove outstretched on the back of a bomber jacket to an Italian gabardine jumpsuit, more formal than functional. But utility also served a role, especially in the "compression" ruching down pant legs and jacket sleeves, which achieved a corseting effect by slightly adjusting both silhouette and posture. The designer pointed out how jackets that seemed like patchwork at first sight actually resulted from labor-intensive cut-and-sew techniques. A shearling coat paneled with chevron quilting took the surplus look to new heights. In spite of the camouflage jacquard outerwear (the infusion of petrol blue was a nice touch) and the military lapel pins in polished metal, Mr Meier distanced the collection from any warlike statement, while noting how civilian travel has largely evolved from military research. For him, it seems, design encourages this sort of dialectic and forces him to consider every piece (the shearling-paneled dog tags, the single feather pendant from unharmed birds, the llama under-layer) as part of a larger statement. "I hope people see it as a little deeper than purely style", he said, sounding rather grounded.

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