Rio Uribe, who grew up in Los Angeles's Koreatown neighborhood, is not your typical up-and-coming designer. He does not want for nerve. The man behind the 2015 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund–winning brand Gypsy Sport has a renegade sensibility uncommon among young NYC–based designers, and with this collection, he reaffirmed his commitment to smashing fashion convention. Smashing may be too strong a word -Rio Uribe is more a lover than a fighter- but his clothes do amount to a refutation of certain industry commonplaces. For starters, Gypsy Sport is a unisex line -and though that’s not such a rarity anymore, the house take on unisex is both unusual and intriguing in its way of challenging masculine codes in terms of dress, while at the same time putting forward a vigorously masculine tone. Hood By Air also manages this trick, as does London-based designer Martine Rose. To wit : the striped corduroy ensemble, pairing an oversize jean jacket with a matching ankle-length skirt. This was a manly skirt, in the way a kilt is a manly skirt. It made you wonder how and why the skirt got categorized as a garment for women in the first place. How arbitrary ! Rio Uribe’s knee-length shirtdresses had the same premise-questioning effect; worn over tight flares or track pants, they came off not like dresses but a westernization of shalwar kameez - a traditional outfit originating in the Indian subcontinent worn by both men and women. Rio Uribe presented this collection as part of New York Fashion Week: Men’s, and therefore he showed all his looks on male models. That helped to underscore the masculine tone. It will be interesting to see how the clothes work when the designer restyles them and puts them on female models, as he said he originally planned to do for his presentation at (regular old) New York Fashion Week. Some of the pieces actually reappeared : a denim shirtdress, for instance, and cropped fleeces and a denim pencil skirt that unzipped in the front to thigh-high. But some of the looks were again shown on men, and at a certain point you stopped noticing the models' gender -which was definitely the point. The key theme of this lineup will ring out regardless of gender, however. This was a collection about race. Rio Uribe went at the topic headlong, creating a patchwork print out of close-up photos of his skin and the skin of various friends and Gypsy Sport team members. The point he was making was an uncontroversial one -skin color is an abstraction- but he did a nice job of translating it into the language of fashion, extrapolating the print into a Seventies-style patchwork and then bouncing off the ’70s vibe by tipping his hat to other aesthetics of the era -shearling, wide collars, old-school footballer tracksuits. Rio Uribe is off to a very strong start. If he can keep up his nerve, he’ll be a designer who really matters.