Happiness is to be found when in pursuit of it, in the soothed expectation, on the way, not only upon the arrival. Accepting detours, just going the way, which is anyhow not this obvious to anyone.
Thomas Bettinelli

Happiness is just a hairflip away.
Chris Crocker


"The way the system works now, you see the clothes, within an hour or so they're online, the world sees them. They don't get to a store for six months. The next week, young celebrity girls are wearing them on red carpets. They're in every magazine. The customer is bored with those clothes by the time they get to the store. They're overexposed, you're tired of them, they've lost their freshness".
Tom Ford


Haider Ackermann

It's finally official, Berluti has appointed Haider Ackermann as its new creative director. His first collection for the Paris-based menswear brand will be FW17, presented during men’s fashion week in Paris in January. The Colombian-born French designer succeeds Alessandro Sartori, Berluti's previous creative director for five years, who rejoined Ermenegildo Zegna as artistic director in February, having previously worked as head of its Z Zegna brand. Haider Ackermann studied at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp and launched his eponymous label in 2003.
"It was all about clash, just the same old story", he said about this season's collection, and in a way he was right on both counts. Yes, there was an ongoing friction in his decorative dialectic; rich sombre olive and blue panne velvet pieces contrasting with brazen-hussy woolens comprehensively inseminated with come-hither spangly crystal. Silk jacquard suits in a drunken check were mismatched into different looks against different counterpoint pieces. The same old story was also evident in the richness in fabrication, the angular agonized rocker archetype, and a sense of mordant lushness. We’ve seen those chisel toes, that hi-there hosiery (a happy thing after sockless Milan), and that attenuated silhouette before, too. It might have been the tragic, not-tonight-dear flaccid mohawk forelocks or the competing richness of the incredible Hôtel de Ville salon we were luxuriating in, but this seemed a darker chapter of Acker-ism than usual -especially compared with the sunlit swashbuckle of his previous men’s collection. The women’s looks, too, were wanner and harder. Subtle variation of the familiar -aka the same old story- is a nobly counterintuitive road to tread in fashion’s endless turning circle. The Acker-type archetype is a prime example of it. This season’s version, though, was intriguingly withdrawn.

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