Marcel Duchamp is Mihara Yasuhiro's hero. He loves Dada. It's partly the influence of his mother, a painter, but his own appetite for collage and an edge of chaos in his clothing also marks him as Dada by nature. "I don't want to make it too obvious", he said during a presentation in his Paris showroom, "so the abnormality is subtle". Or maybe not. This season's collection was full of disorienting details : the trompe l'œil pockets hand-painted on a biker jacket, the shirttails sewn over shorts, the coat that tied with two additional sleeves. His skill as a designer is that he has been able to turn such tricks into a convincing design signature. That's because his clothes never look precious. They've been to hell and back, worn, shredded, patched, ingeniously reconfigured so that the old looks new again. Here, khaki and denim, for instance, were alchemized with wrapping, bias cutting, unexpected volume. But for all the acute technique, there was nothing flashy about these designs. "Fashion is so bright now, patterns are so strong, I want my clothes to be subtle", he said. The collaging of unlikely elements was a Dada trademark. It doesn't sound like the easiest proposition for a collection of menswear. But Miaha Yasuhiro continues to give it a grungy, slouchy sex appeal. Which is not so bad at all.